Located in the Central Vineyards in the eastern part of the Loire Valley, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are both famed for quality expressions of Sauvignon Blanc.
Head to head: Explore the similarities and differences between five Sancerre and five Pouilly-Fumé wines
Sancerre is home to more land under vine than its neighbour, and vineyards are planted on hillside slopes whereas in Pouilly-Fumé the terrain is flatter.
As they are close geographically, it follows that the two appellations are home to similar soil types.
The two wines – both alike in dignity – can be hard to tell apart in a blind tasting, but follow our experts’ insights and tips to see what differentiates their profiles.
Jim Budd, DWWA Regional Chair for the Loire:
‘The differences between these Sauvignon Blancs are nuanced and subtle.
‘Pouilly-Fumé tends to be a little broader, softer, slightly less vibrant and aromatic than Sancerre. It can have a smoky character, especially those from flint (silex) soils, though this can also be true of Sancerre grown on flint.
‘Both Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, especially the good ones, have grass and citric characters – typically grapefruit – rather than the classic notion of cat’s pee, which in the Loire is a sign of unripe grapes. In ripe, hot years stone-fruit characters emerge.
‘Both should have linear purity of flavour and can age attractively. Producers like Henri Bourgeois, Joseph Mellot and Pascal Jolivet make both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, so try them together and see if you can taste the differences.’
Vineyard scene in Sancerre. Credit: Otto Stadler / Photodisc via Getty Images
Pascal Jolivet:
‘The late Kit Stevens MW once said, Sancerre is like spring, Pouilly-Fumé like summer – meaning that Sancerre is more immediately approachable in its youth, but with Pouilly-Fumé, you have to wait.
‘Pouilly-Fumé is more mineral, a connoisseur’s wine. It was very famous in the 1980s and ’90s, until Sancerre eclipsed it in popularity – maybe partly because Sancerre is easier to pronounce. We’re on a mission to bring Pouilly-Fumé back.’
Taken from: A drink with… Pascal Jolivet
