Over the centuries, the wine world has rarely faced a scenario quite as daunting as today’s: steep new US tariffs on European alcohol imports, coupled with declining global demand for wine.
When asked about the business impacts of these challenges, Michael Kaiser, Executive Vice President and Director of Government Affairs for USA winegrower lobbyist WineAmerica, had a blunt response: ‘This whole thing is a giant mess.’
Scroll down for tasting notes of Flying Blue’s wines
Confronting an unpredictable market
‘Right now, the biggest challenge is uncertainty,’ Kaiser emphasises, stressing that some businesses ‘are waiting to see what Trump does next. They simply don’t know what is going to happen.’
From large to small importers, the impacts are already palpable. Wine Educator Bob Trimble, who founded boutique importer La Lumière Sélections ten years ago to fill a niche in the Pennsylvania market, explains how his company is feeling the pinch. ‘Without clarity on future policy, it’s extremely difficult to move forward with confidence,’ Trimble notes – by committing to a shipment ‘I risk losing my entire profit margin – or worse, taking a loss on the order’ if tariffs are increased before the wines reach the US. A significant tariff, he notes, could effectively mean the end of his importing business.
Larger companies are also concerned about the effects of the unpredictable US tariff regime. ‘It could severely impact our international programme,’ says John Poggemeyer, director of wine and beer for Heinen’s, a grocery store chain with 19 stores in Cleveland, Ohio, and four in the Chicago metropolitan area. In Ohio, as in Pennsylvania, pricing is tightly regulated. By law, distributors and retailers must apply a minimum markup on wines they purchase from wineries. This eliminates competition on pricing: whether it’s Costco, Heinen’s or Sam’s Club, every retailer in Ohio sells the same bottle at the same price. ‘We’ve built strong relationships with estate and legacy producers,’ Poggemeyer adds, ‘and those wines could become unattainable at the price points our margins demand.’
Staff driving through vineyards at White Cloud winery in Marlborough, New Zealand. Credit: Richard Briggs.
Listening to consumers
Both Poggemeyer and Trimble also emphasise that all is not yet lost – and that savvy wine consumers are still looking for the same things even in this uncertain market. ‘My focus has always been on working with producers who are authentic, passionate and dedicated to crafting wines of integrity and character,’ says Trimble. Poggemeyer argues that consumers’ underlying needs are unchanged: ‘People want wines with a story or a sense of authenticity, especially authenticity of place.’
In these turbulent times, consumers can take comfort in the carefully curated selections from importers such as Flying Blue (highlights below).
‘There’s always a market for great wine,’ remarks Ryan Kepler, President of Flying Blue Imports. ‘At Flying Blue, we’re sharing the weight of tariffs across true partners – producers, importers and distributors – because we all believe they’re temporary and we’re in this for the long run. Today’s consumer is savvier than ever. They want wines with not just a passport, but a ‘birth certificate’ – authenticity, story and soul.’
Flying Blue wines to try
Aleixo, Family Collection Grande Reserva Tinto, Bairrada, Portugal 2022
94pts
A decidedly mineral-driven red, with a bold mix of black and redcurrant fruit laced with ironstone and a distinct, earthy minerality. Aromatics of toffee, coffee and a subtle hint of brown sugar add richness and depth. Medium-bodied on the palate, supported by the fresh bite of pomegranate seed-like acidity, giving the wine both structure and lift.
Alc 13.5%
Aleixo, Praia, Vinho Regional Beira Atlântico, Portugal 2022
93pts
An easy-going table wine offering crunchy red berry fruit, dusty minerals, Mediterranean herbs and a touch of vanilla and lilac – more precisely, lilacs. There’s a subtle sweetness on the palate and gentle tannins that glide to a satisfying finish. A blend of the great Portuguese varieties Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.
Alc 13%
Domaine Mickaël Mothe Chablis, France 2023
93pts
Lemon-bright with aromas of lime blossom and wet slate. The palate is finely balanced, driven by racy acidity and lifted by a subtle note of candied ginger on the finish.
Alc 12%
Monnalisa, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Italy 2022
95pts
A blockbuster of a wine, powerful and unapologetically bold, with a glass-staining ruby-purple hue. The nose is packed with ripe mulberry, blackberry jam, fig and chocolate-covered coffee beans. Full-bodied and bursting with candied red berry fruit, crushed rose petals and rich underbrush, the palate builds into soaring tannins that gradually resolve into a finish of crushed stone and cinnamon-spiced oak. The label – a graffiti-style rendition of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa – mirrors the wine’s complexity: edgy, expressive and quietly contemplative, much like her enigmatic gaze.
Alc 15.5%
North Wind, Vidal Icewine Reserve, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada 2023
93pts
A rich, fragrant nose of nectarine, honeysuckle, pineapple and candied melon. The palate is luscious, silky and supremely smooth, leading to a lingering finish of dried apricots and drizzled wildflower honey.
Alc 10.5%
Under the Tuscan Sun, Rosso, Tuscany, Italy 2023
93pts
This Rosso Toscana is classic Italy in a glass – fragrant with notes of blackcurrant, underbrush, black olive and rose petals. The medium-bodied palate is built on a framework of supple tannins, while juicy acidity brings lift and energy, edged with a subtle saline snap on the finish.
Alc 13%
Under the Tuscan Sun, Chardonnay, Tuscany, Italy 2023
92pts
A rather irresistible Chardonnay that is ripe, full-throttle and richly layered with lemon curd, butterscotch, pineapple and honeysuckle. The palate is lush and rounded, unfolding with warm brown spices, clove and a hint of vanilla pastry. Decadent, yet balanced and unapologetically expressive.
Alc 12.5%
White Cloud, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2024
91pts
Fragrant notes of sea grass mingle with white flowers, tropical guava and a flinty mineral edge. The palate is bright, clean and racy, with just a kiss of sweetness and loads of crunchy green apple, pear and kiwi, all framed by citrus-driven acidity and taut tension.
Alc 13%
Flying Blue’s domestic wines to try
Courtier California, Petit Verdot, Napa Valley (Calistoga), California, USA 2023
94pts
The 2023 Courtier Petit Verdot from Calistoga is an energetic red, brimming with vibrant red and black fruits, lifted by blue-fruit nuances and an impressively silken texture. The fruit clearly benefits from the warmer up-valley climate, resulting in a wine that feels like pure bliss in the glass. It has the tannic backbone and saline minerality to complement a prime New York strip or charcoal-grilled burger, yet also shows the suaveness and wild-herb complexity to pair beautifully with hearty, oregano-rich red-sauce pastas. From an 18-year-old single vineyard on the Calistoga valley floor, fermented in stainless steel and aged in 60% new French oak. 100% Petit Verdot. Drink 2025-2035.
Alc 14.7%
Courtier California Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley (Calistoga), California, USA 2023
94pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Franc from Calistoga is a wine worth seeking out. Because Cabernet Franc ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, it excels in the warmer up-valley conditions, particularly in a cooler growing season like 2023, as it matures ahead of the curve while retaining bright natural acidity. The wine offers pure red and black fruit notes, with cherry and blackberry character complemented by spiced Santa Rosa plums. Heady cedar wood spices are seamlessly integrated, while slate-stone minerality adds tension and length, joined by savoury sagebrush and crushed cocoa nibs. Inviting and layered with plump tannins, it is a Cabernet Franc that lends itself to countless occasions for enjoyment. From 15-year-old vines in Calistoga nestled between Highway 29 and Silverado Trail, fermented in stainless steel and aged in 75% new French oak. 100% Cabernet Franc. Drink 2025-2035.
Alc 15.6%
Courtier California Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California, USA 2023
94pts
The 2023 Courtier Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is an expressive red wine with saturated dark-berry fruit, graphite and elegant cedar wood flourishes. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, it features powdery tannins and zesty blood orange acidity that frame red-toned fruits and warm baking spice notes, leading to a graceful finish of violets and cocoa powder. Blended from 15+ year-old Napa Valley vines across Calistoga, Rutherford and Napa mountain fruit, small-batch fermented and finished in new French oak. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2035.
Alc 15.1%
Courtier California, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (Howell Mountain), California, USA 2023
95pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Sauvignon from Howell Mountain offers a more mineral-laden, finesse-driven expression of this Napa Valley AVA. While wines from the area can often be heavily-oaked and brooding, this leans towards the style of Dunn, which may be familiar to some readers. It showcases balanced red-toned fruits and cedar wood spice, with fragrant floral notes, rich earth character, leather and tobacco. Firm, mineral-rich tannins contribute an appealing sense of lift and brightness rather than sheer density. Make no mistake, the wine is medium- to full-bodied with ample power, yet it retains clarity and poise, making it a versatile wine to sip or pair with a range of cuisines. From 15-year-old vines grown at 1,000 feet on the volcanic slopes of Howell Mountain, aged in 50% new French oak after stainless steel fermentation. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2037.
Alc 13.5%
Courtier California, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (Spring Mountain), California, USA 2023
95pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Sauvignon from Spring Mountain is a richly layered, powerfully structured red wine that showcases the bright garrigue character typical of the AVA, alongside inky black-fruit depth. Candied violets and blue-fruit notes add juicy nuances, while meaty, firm tannins carry a crisp edge balanced by tangy blood orange acidity. The finish reveals savoury olive tapenade, white pepper and crushed-slate minerality. Crafted from 10-year-old vines at 1,100 feet in Spring Mountain District, fermented in stainless steel. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2037.
Alc 14.1%
Courtier California Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (Yountville), California, USA 2023
94pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Sauvignon from Yountville is a finesse-driven wine, opening with red-toned fruits and toasty cedar wood aromatics, nuanced by rose petal florals. It shows both power and drive, with juicy acidity that balances the firm, mineral-laced tannins. Sourced from a low-yield vineyard in Yountville, fermented in stainless steel, and aged in 60% new French oak. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2035.
Alc 15.1%
Courtier California Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley (Rutherford), California, USA 2023
94pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford offers a classic expression of the appellation, with red-berry fruit and a dusty tannic backbone. Nuances of wild herbs such as sage and dried thyme add complexity, complementing the wine’s rich palate expression, fine yet firm tannins, and lengthy red-toned minerality. Produced from gravelly soils in Rutherford, fermented in stainless steel and matured in 70% new French oak. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2035.
Alc 14.8%
Courtier California, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (Mt Veeder), California, USA 2023
96pts
The 2023 Courtier Cabernet Sauvignon from Mt. Veeder draws on its raw, high-elevation mountain power to deliver a wine that spans blue, black and red fruits, framed by rich cedar wood character. It builds with power and intensity through grippy mountain tannins that carry into the long finish. With air, dark fruits become more prominent, redolent of juicy blackberry and freshly picked blueberry, while wet-slate notes lift and brighten the finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025-2040.
Alc 15.2%
Scores were generated as part of a non-blind tasting, and all wines were supplied to Decanter free of charge to feature in paid for content.
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