Sweeping beaches gleam with pristine waves gently rolling over the shores of this calm island festooned with vineyards, off the coast of Auckland. On arrival, the slow pace leads to instant decompression, with nature unfurling widescreen splendour across cosy corners and epic vistas that never seem too busy, even in peak summertime.
Waiheke, whose original Māori name, Te Motu Arai Roa, means ‘the long sheltering island’, feels like a place of refuge – and at less than 20km long, it’s delightfully simple to navigate. For winery visits, there’s enough variety to fill a whole week or a weekend, depending on your schedule.
Either way, don’t miss Man O’ War, a cellar door with a jaw-dropping setting by the beach in Man O’ War Bay and vertiginous vineyards redolent of Alsace-by-the-sea. You can drive there, take the hop-on-hop-off bus or go by boat (tickets via explore group, depart from Auckland’s Viaduct harbour). The beach is one that Captain Cook once eyed for kauri trees from which to make masts for his ships. The atmosphere on arrival is high-quality and informal.
Man O’ War is known for its Bordeaux blends, such as top-level Tytti (‘too-tee’) 2019. But for me, the wine of the tasting, for both value and deliciousness, was the Dreadnought Syrah 2021.
The Forest Flight ziplining experience through the forest gives sublime views and is marshalled impeccably. It’s easy to book in advance through the winery’s website. Flying over the trees back down to the coast was the highlight of my visit to the island.
The cellar door and beachfront dining area at Man O’ War Winery, overlooking Man O’ War Bay on the eastern coast of Waiheke Island
DJs and zero dosage
More centrally located and easily accessible from the main Onetangi Road is Soho Family Vineyards. This boutique cellar door is all about fun, reflected in its strikingly cool wine labels. For walk-ins of up to six people there’s no need to book. With great tunes in the afternoons, the coolest t-shirts in the trade, Asian fusion food and wines named after pop culture icons (think Jagger Pinot Gris) its informality is a delight. Look out for owner Rachael Carter’s delightful sheepadoodle Dusty, sometimes to be found in the DJ booth.
This is a place to soak up some sunshine, revel in the ‘entertain not explain’ ethos and sip scrumptious rosé. Wine highlights include the zero dosage Mara Méthode Rosé Brut 2022 and Westwood 2024 – the latter a joyful rosé to match the vibe.
For a complete contrast, a few moments up the hill is Te Motu, famed for holding back its wines until they’re fully mature – some for 25 years – before serving them in its stunningly beautiful restaurant garden overlooking the vineyards of Onetangi valley. Vertical tastings are available seven days a week and the quality in the glass is magical.
Founder Paul Dunleavy bought the vineyard site when he was just 31, leaving corporate life in his 50s to focus on Te Motu. Working together with his son Rory, the sense of treating wine as legacy is palpable – not just in holding back vintages to mature before release (all under cork) – but in their sense of mutual devotion to the craft of wine. ‘To make wines like this, we take risks,’ says Paul as I sip his Kuikui 2019, sourced from low-yielding Syrah vines. Its spicy finesse, fragrance of inky violets and vivacity made it one of the most compelling wines of my trip.
The restaurant at Te Motu in the Onetangi valley. Credit: Rory Dunleavy
Lees lover
If there’s one wine name that’s worth memorising to seek out in Waiheke it’s Kelly Washington. Husband-and wife duo Tamra Kelly-Washington and Simon Kelly set out to produce wines using grapes from fastidious growers on Waiheke. They aim only to deal with single-plot sites with old vines at high altitude and high-density planting. All must be sustainably and organically or biodynamically farmed.
I’ve long been a fan of their Waiheke Syrah, which I source from The Wine Society in the UK. They don’t have a cellar door, but Waiheke is their home and you’ll come across their wines on a whole stack of the local lists.
Stylistically, Tamra’s wines are linked by her love of lees. She told me: ‘I never get rid of them until the last point.’ This leads to a silkiness across her red, white and rosé range that delivers elegant and enchanting wines.
Passage Rock is a dreamy setting for lovers of fine wood and high-quality cooking. With a sea view surrounded by vines, the restaurant is welcoming and relaxing, while dishes are next-level. Chef Alexander Blee tells me he cooks ‘clean, honest, pure dishes with quality ingredients from Waiheke. The whole idea is to support David’s wine; wine needs to be the star.’
That David is winemaker David Evans, who tends to pick a few weeks later than everyone else on the island. This gives his wines opulence as well as balance. ‘I trust my land,’ he told me. ‘You can’t rush nature.’ His Sauvignon Blanc is pitch-perfect with a platter of local Pacific oysters, but don’t miss his world-class Viognier. As for reds, his selection of Syrah is worth the plane ticket to New Zealand alone – and offers categoric proof that reds can mature under screwcap. Although my heart was lost to David’s Syrah, his Cabernets are top level, too. As he puts it: ‘Syrah is reliable every year; in the great years Cabernet pisses all over it.’
What I love most about Waiheke is encapsulated right there: world-class wines in the most relaxed, informal settings; new friends easily made; and beaches and landscapes to make your eyes glow in their sockets. It’s this simple: book your flight.
My perfect day on Waiheke Island
Morning
Start the day with a visit to Man O’ War, for a wine tasting by the beach, then lunch. I highly recommend the Forest Flight zipline experience – truly incredible views over the island’s coastline stretching for miles on a clear day. The flora and fauna, from ferns to giant kauri trees – even the odd stick insect – are also awe-inspiring.
Afternoon
After lunch, take a taxi or hop on a bus to Passage Rock for an afternoon tasting. Better still, you can walk the 9.4km from Man O’War to Passage Rock as part of the Te Ara Hura trail, a 100km walking adventure around Waiheke. For all the details on this walk and others, visit Walk Waiheke. I’d go so far as to say that Passage Rock should be dubbed ‘Condrieu-on-Sea’ for the plushness and lavish quality of the local Viogner. The reds, too, are fulsome and ripe – the Reserve Syrah is a must-taste. The food is spectacular if you’re up for snacks or even an early dinner, but booking is essential.
Evening
For more tasting, pre-book a taxi and head to Te Motu for a feast overlooking the vines alongside magical mature Waiheke wines. For a lighter bite, head to The Oyster Inn overlooking Oneroa Bay, for some of the island’s best seafood. Pair outrageously fresh local oysters and vibrant kingfish crudo with a glass of Kelly Washington Rosé 2024. Stay the night at Cable Bay Views and wake up to some of the most gorgeous vistas on the island.
The Oyster Inn
How to get there
From Auckland’s Downtown Ferry Terminal, the crossing to Waiheke takes 40 minutes with Fullers 360 as a foot passenger. There are 21 sailings daily. To travel with a vehicle, Sealink Ferries takes an hour and there are seven sailings every day. Tickets and information can be found at Fullers and Sealink.
Credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd
Your Waiheke address book
Accommodation
Cable Bay Views, Oneroa
Spotless modern studios with gorgeous floor-to-ceiling glass looking out over Waiheke’s wonderful landscape.
The Boatshed, Oneroa
A boutique, chic and luxurious hotel just above the beach at Oneroa.
Waiheke Waterfront Lodge, Oneroa
A five-star modern hotel that enjoys beautiful views over Huruhi Bay.
Cable Bay Views
Restaurants
Casita Miro, Onetangi
Stylish cellar door restaurant specialising in locally sourced tapas dishes.
The Heke, Onetangi
A family-friendly option where you can also enjoy drinks from Waiheke Brewery Co and Waiheke Whisky.
Three Seven Two, Onetangi
Multi-award-winning, right across from Onetangi beach with a huge spread of dishes (named for the first three digits of the Waiheke phone number).
Activities
EcoZip Adventures, near Onetangi
If you don’t do the zipline activity at Man O’ War, this three-hour experience takes you over native forests and vineyards.
Waiheke Community Art Gallery
Always has a range of exhibitions and programs from around New Zealand.
Waiheke Distilling Co, Cowes Bay
Its signature Spirit of Waiheke gin is famed throughout the island. Tour the distillery then settle in for a tasting and food.
EcoZip Adventures
