With its dramatic scenery – glistening waters dazzling against a mountainous backdrop, and villages clustered at intervals along the lake shore – Garda has been billed as the new Lake Como, a must-visit tourist destination. The word is well and truly out, and especially among wine lovers, who can enjoy locally produced styles that include Valpolicella, Bardolino and Custoza.
Born from an olive grove
Credit: Alex Moling
The beauty of Cape of Senses, opened just two years ago on a hillside above the town of Torri del Benaco, is that the lake and its attractions are easily accessible, and yet it feels far removed from the bustle and crowds below. Spread across 10,000 square metres of beautifully manicured gardens and olive grove, the five-star luxury spa resort features just 55 rooms – all suites with their own terrace and lake view (some with rooftop terraces and / or private rooftop pool) – so even when the hotel is fully booked, it never feels busy.
Credit: Florian Andergassen
The resort is owned by brothers Christian and Johannes Margesin, who grew up in a family of hoteliers – the family also owns the luxury Alpiana wellness resort in South Tyrol. They searched for a site on the lakes for years, before finding, in 2018, the neglected olive grove that would become Cape of Senses. They have created the ultimate, adults-only hideaway, in an area with no light pollution, with a sleek architectural design that blends with the natural environment and ensures stunning views from every vantage point (even in the sauna).
A modern take on local cuisine
Credit: Alex Moling
Cape of Senses’ location on the east side of the lake affords an ideal view of the dramatic sunsets. The fine-dining restaurant Al Tramonto (‘at sunset’) is on the top floor, and diners can watch the sun slowly sink behind the mountains opposite either through floor-to-ceiling windows inside the restaurant, or if the weather is fine, from tables on the roof terrace. Head chef Francesco Pavan’s menu features modern interpretations of local dishes, planned to make the most of seasonal produce, while sommelier Vito Mezzatesta will suggest pairings from a 200-bin list, strong on the wines of northern Italy. The hotel uses the Coravin wine-preservation system and is planning to expand its by-the-glass offering.
Be sure to try the cocktails, too, created by the in-house mixologist. You’ll be given the resort’s riff on an Aperol Spritz on arrival, and be sure to try the Medi-tini too, which uses an infusion of basil and local olive oil to add a distinctive Mediterranean twist to the classic martini – a perfect aperitif.
Relax or explore
Credit: Alex Moling
It would be easy to while away your days (there’s a minimum three-night stay here) in the gardens, dipping in and out of the pools, and in the luxurious 2,000-square metre spa – which includes a private spa area for hire. But those who do get itchy feet can use the hotel’s e-bikes or Fiat 500s to explore the local vineyards. Or if you want the planning taken care of, book on to one of several wine-themed excursions with sommelier Vito.
Visit the famous and historic Valpolicella estate Tommasi, or take the e-bike and wine tour to smaller family winery Facci, producing wines organically including Bepi, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with local grapes – tasting this alongside Parmesan dipped in the estate’s own honey is a revelation. In winter, Vito will run tutored tastings in the hotel grounds, but will happily talk about the local grape varieties and styles at any time of year.
An easy, 40-minute drive from Verona airport, Cape of Senses is a world away from the bustle of the city, and perfectly positioned as a gateway to the wider Garda region. It’s all done so immaculately and tastefully – understated luxury is the best descriptor – that you’ll come away determined to explore the wines of the South Tyrol next, from the family’s other spa resort. Let the wine education continue!
For more information, see the Cape of Senses website.
