Margaret River whites: Beyond Chardonnay

Outside of Bordeaux, there aren’t many wine regions producing Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, yet this white wine is a hallmark of Margaret River . Perhaps it’s due to the incredible heights to which Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have risen that the region’s white Bordeaux blends are tucked away in their shadows. Notes and scores for 10 outstanding Margaret River Semillon-Sauvignon blends below [subscriber-content] Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from this part of the world date back as far back as the first plantings of Margaret River Chardonnay . The Margaret River wine region emerged in the late 1960s, following the work of Dr John Gladstones, an agronomist at the University of Western Australia. His research in 1965 and 1966 first proposed the suitability of Margaret River for viticulture. This prompted the region’s founding commercial wineries ( Vasse Felix , followed by Moss Wood , Cape Mentelle and Cullen ) to plant vineyards here, with planting material (on its rootstock) sourced from what was available via the state’s Agricultural Department. Riesling was the first white-wine variety planted in the region, but it eventually proved less than ideal for this maritime climate. The first Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in 1976, and in 2020 the area under vine for white wines comprised 15.8% Semillon, 19.2% Sauvignon Blanc and 17.8% Chardonnay. Cabernet Sauvignon leads the reds, with 20.9% of the total vineyard area. [caption id="attachment_550353" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Sauvignon Blanc vineyard at Cullen Wines Credit: Francis Andrijich[/caption] Looking back Vanya Cullen , chief winemaker and managing director at Cullen, recalls: ‘Mum chose the varieties to plant. She always loved the blend, while Dad was more of a Chardonnay man. We planted Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc in 1976 in the Cullen vineyard; they’re dry-farmed and the vineyard was certified biodynamic in 2004.’ The 1979 vintage was Cullen’s first from these vines. Rather than bottle each variety separately, they produced the region’s (and most likely the country’s) first Semillon-Sauvignon blend. The 1979 Cullen Semillon-Sauvignon was an immediate success, taking home a trophy at the Perth Royal Wine Show. Mike Peterkin, who founded Pierro Winery in 1979, comments: ‘It was just a logical step to combine them both when the vines were ready for their first crop. The concept wasn't particularly original; it was borrowed, but not modelled on, the French blend. 'The Bordelais at the time were mainly red winemakers and to some extent, the white blend was an afterthought except for a couple of the top châteaux, who gave it special attention. Those wines were generally matured in oak, whereas our focus was capturing the fruit characters, which Australia was so good at doing.’ [caption id="attachment_550350" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Sorting white grapes at Pierro Winery[/caption] Spreading roots The blend grew in popularity in the region, thanks to the complementary qualities of the two varieties and the perfect growing conditions for each. ‘Our founder (John Gladstone) did very well in identifying the climate and soil similarities to Bordeaux, and I would like to think it’s that long, gentle season that allows those varieties to get to a lovely and full physiological ripeness’, says Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste. Demand from consumers followed; the Margaret River white blend was enjoyed by Western Australian drinkers and was also popular in Sydney , on Australia’s east coast. The wine was practically made for a lifestyle of warm summers and coastal living. The boom reached peak popularity in the mid- to late-1990s, with production increasing to meet demand. Margaret River’s success led other wine regions to copy the same blend, but few succeeded, without the unique conditions of Western Australia’s south west that help these varieties grow so well. Although the blend goes back almost 50 years in Margaret River, ‘people forget that – although Semillon has a long history in Australia – there wasn't much Sauvignon Blanc planted [in the country] at that time’ says Peterkin. ' When I was studying winemaking at Roseworthy in the late 1970s, Hardy's had some planted in McLaren Vale, to put into a sweet wine. That was the only Sauvignon Blanc in Australia then. It was starting to be planted in places like Margaret River, obviously, but it wasn't the ubiquitous variety that it is now.’ Distinctive style So, what makes a Margaret River Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend? Firstly the combination of Semillon’s ageability and Sauvignon Blanc’s freshness and aromatics are an ideal match. The best bottles can be enjoyed in their youth, with the capacity to develop for 10-plus years. The blend may have been borrowed from Bordeaux, but the Australian iteration is distinctive and has evolved and diversified from the early days. Dukes has called Margaret River home for 34 years and is a fan of the blend. His passion for the region’s Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, has played a key role in the more textural wines produced from the variety in recent years. ‘I think we’ve seen changes over time,’ he says. ‘In the early days, it was largely an aromatic, crisp, fresh style that was being produced, focusing on flavour and ripeness. With a greater understanding of these varieties in the vineyard, we are now getting more aromatic wines with better natural acid balance,’ Dukes adds. [caption id="attachment_550349" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste in the cellar[/caption] Winemaking and viticulture ‘Over the last 20 years of this style, I think we also have a much better understanding of the use of oak, mainly seasoned oak, and the advantages or characters we can get from sur lie maturation. The region has become more confident, and people have explored these techniques and seen how they work well stylistically. We are seeing more sophistication across the board now than a couple of decades ago’, concludes Dukes. As the vines have matured, so has the viticultural approach. Dukes shares his journey: ‘Over the past few decades as a winemaker, I have learned much about canopy architecture. It’s about flavour farming in the vineyard – achieving ripeness and flavour without going too far beyond that into over-ripeness,’ he explains. ‘Previously, if you were seeking intensity of flavour, you would have to get fruit riper, but now we understand the overall balance is more important than the individual component. The aim is to avoid the capsicums and thistles, and get those lovely notes of lychee, white pear and nectarine.’ Increasing diversity The blend’s identity has progressed since the early days, and there is now a wide range of styles available in the region, including those with proven ability to age beautifully. Skin contact and lees work are regularly utilised to build texture and complexity. Many producers choose to use oak, in either supporting or significant roles. Wines such as Dormilona’s Orenji show that the blend lends itself to creative winemaking choices. In this case, the fruit is co-fermented on skins for two weeks in open fermenters, spends time in cement egg and then is pressed to go through full malo. Some producers add a dash of a third variety, such as Chardonnay or Verdelho. Cullen began making a white Bordeaux blend from its Mangan vineyard in 2006, with the inclusion of Verdelho. Cullen recalls: ‘We made separate vineyard blends once our vineyards were certified biodynamic . 'The Mangan’s strength as a vineyard is about fruit vitality with the addition of the Verdelho and no oak. In contrast, the older vines on the Cullen vineyard can handle more time in oak, about 70%, with the Sauvignon Blanc dominant in the blend. Overnight skin contact and biodynamics are our two major points of evolution.’ Several other producers have chosen to add a dash of the region’s calling card, Chardonnay. They include Cath Oates at Oates Ends and Peterkin at Pierro. [caption id="attachment_550352" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Vanya Cullen Credit: Francis Andrijich[/caption] Winning new fans Peterkin notes: ‘Sydney has seen a recent resurgence of interest in the Margaret River white blends. I think people are starting to look for something slightly different from [varietal] Chardonnay. Our LTC is still a relatively expensive wine in its category, but at that price point, people can buy an average Chardonnay or enjoy a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc that is really very good quality.’ Given their maturity, quality and identity, perhaps it is time to refer to these world-class white blends as the Margaret River White Blend, dropping any reference to Bordeaux altogether. The wines, after all, speak for themselves. ‘They are the dark horses of the portfolio; they do age really, really well,’ shares Cullen. ‘You can have texture, complexity and deliciousness in the blends, as well as longevity and drinkability. People are blown away when they taste them, because they can be a die-hard Chardonnay drinker, and they'll go, “Oh, wow, that's incredible. I didn't think I liked Sauvignon Blanc, but I love that!”’ [/subscriber-content] Margaret River white Bordeaux-style blends: 12 to try [wine-collection] Related articles Ned Goodwin MW: In pursuit of regional identity in Australian Chardonnay Australian wine: A snapshot for 2025 Best dry white Bordeaux 2023 wines tasted en primeur

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Margaret River whites: Beyond Chardonnay

Notes and scores for 10 outstanding Margaret River Semillon-Sauvignon blends below

Margaret River white Bordeaux-style blends: 12 to try

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