Xavier Ausàs: A personal journey into Ribera del Duero

The man behind the creation and consolidation of some of Spain’s most recognisable wines could have perhaps enjoyed an easy, early retirement, resting on the laurels earned during his long and successful tenure at Tempos de Vega Sicilia (TVS). However, in 2015, Xavier Ausàs decided to leave the group owned by the Álvarez family to embark on a personal journey. Since then, Ausàs has been busily but calmly exploring his winemaking skillset at the helm of his eponymous project as well as a consultant to wineries in across Spain and beyond. Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of Xavier Ausàs' six vintages of Interpratación [subscriber-content] Apprentice turned master Born in 1968 in Figueres, the Catalonian town most famous for being the birthplace of Salvador Dalí, Ausàs left Spain as a teenager to study viticulture and oenology in France, first at the Lycée Agro-Viticole de Blanquefort (Bordeaux) and then at the Université Toulouse III – Paul Sabatier. He joined Vega Sicilia in 1990 and would stay for the next quarter of a century, honing his craft as assistant winemaker to the great Mariano Garcia. Following Garcias’s retirement, Ausàs was promoted to technical director of TVS in 1998, in what marked the beginning of 17 intense years overseeing the company’s iconic Ribera del Duero winery. In addition, he helped guide the budding projects in Toro ( Pintia , first vintage 2001), Rioja (Macán, in partnership with Benjamin de Rothschild , first vintage 2009), Tokaj ( Tokay-Oremus , first vintage 1993) and Ribera del Duero itself (Alión, first vintage 1991). It was under Ausàs' technical leadership that the group consolidated its reputation beyond its flagship wine and brand, building a portfolio of enviable character and consistency. So what prompted the decision to leave his leadership position at the thriving empire to focus on the establishment of his own, modest realm? ‘Life is made of different chapters. And I would have never been able to build a personal project while at Vega Sicilia. I spent 25 years there and was eager to explore other regions, different grape varieties, different wine profiles and different ways of working.’ Shared visions And exploring he is. Further to the establishment of his own winery in Ribera del Duero, Ausàs is now consulting for an interesting and varied array of producers: Marqués de Vargas in Rioja; Ànima Negra , the maverick Mallorca venture founded by Miquel Àngel Cerdá and Pere Obrador in 1994; Conde de San Cristóbal, Dominio Fournier and Valdubón, all in Ribera del Duero; Finca Río Negro, against the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Norte natural park in Guadalajara; and Château Grand Boise in Provence. ‘It’s really interesting to explore so many different ways of working and managing an estate. And yet, now matter how different, the goal is always the same: to produce the best possible wine – even if at each project this goal is approached with very different visions and resources.’ While Ausàs recognises that his experience at TVS has given him a particularly good skillset, he highlights how these new experiences are allowing him to flex different management and winemaking muscles. Interpreting Ribera’s soul There’s a particular, perhaps unsurprising focus to Ausàs personal project. A counterpoint to the intense multitasking of his previous role at TVS and current, varied consulting gigs. He produces a single wine (first vintage 2016), Interpretación , at his winery in Quintanilla de Onésimo, on the western edge of Ribera del Duero, using Tinto Fino/Tempranillo fruit from different parcels across the appellation. While between 60 and 70% of the fruit hails, each vintage, from Ausàs own vineyards in Naval de Roa, the remainder of the blend is sourced from trusted growers with whom he has forged close relationships over the past three decades. ‘I wouldn’t buy fruit from just any grower. These people are like an extended family – I’ve been to their children’s christening and weddings. There’s a mutual; appreciation and trust that is paramount to the work we do. 'Not least because it gives me the chance to have priority access to their best fruit from the plots I need. The binomial man-terroir is at the centre [of my philosophy].’ As explained by Ausàs for a piece earlier this year on the many changes taking place in Ribera del Duero, different terroirs contribute different aspects to the blend: ‘From Nava de Roa [Ausàs' own vineyards] I get structure and intense blue fruit; from Gumiel de Mercado, cool red fruit; from Roa de Duero, chalky minerality; and from Moradillo de Roa (where the highest parcels are at 950m of elevation), fresh acidity.’ He uses his recognised blending skills and his deep knowledge of Ribera’s terroirs – the key requirements to the consistency of all of the region’s famous wines – in pursuit of a faithful expression of both vintage and of his own philosophy. [caption id="attachment_543059" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Xavier Ausàs in one of his vineyards, Naval de Roa (Ribera del Duero) - Photo courtesy of Ausàs Bodegas y Viñedos[/caption] Powerful elegance By committing to regional blending – as opposed to the terroir specificity being championed by others – Ausàs wants to create a vehicle to, as his wine’s name suggests, convey his personal interpretation of Ribera del Duero while also capturing the essence of each year. ‘The trend nowadays is using own fruit only and producing parcel-specific wines. Our philosophy is the complete opposite,’ Ausàs explains. ‘We intentionally don’t work with our own fruit only. We need different expressions of Tempranillo to make the best wine. We make a multi-parcel wine in order to bring the maximum nuance and complexity to the bottle.’ Ausàs is also wary of trying to make ‘ethereal’ wines in the region: ‘We can’t make a “pseudo-Rioja” or a Burgundy wine in Ribera. Our identity is about powerful elegance – and I remain committed to that.’ This commitment is supported by a deft winemaking approach that juggles intensity and nuance. Albeit unapologetically powerful, Ausàs consistently shows – across the six vintages already released (scroll down for tasting notes) – a poised, fine tannic structure, an assertive acid line and seamless integration of wood and alcohol. ‘The three pillars that build my wine’s foundation are: aromatic purity, freshness and elegant intensity,’ he explains. [breakout] Xavier Ausàs – Key facts: 1990: Joins Tempos de Vega Sicilia (TVS)

1998: Becomes technical director of TVS

2016: Establishes Ausàs Bodegas y Viñedos in Quintanilla de Onésimo (DO Ribera del Duero) after leaving TVS in 2015

Wines produced: Interpretación , a single-variety Tinto Fino, first released in 2016. It is a blend of fruit from Ausàs own vineyards in Nava de Roa, as well as trusted growers in Gumiel de Mercado, Roa de Duero, and Moradillo de Roa

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[caption id="attachment_543060" align="alignnone" width="300"] Barrel room at the Ausàs winery, Quintanilla de Onésimo - Photo courtesy of Ausàs Bodegas y Viñedos[/caption] Knowledge and enjoyment Is climate change threatening his ability to deliver this? ‘Not really. We’re now able to achieve ideal maturation more easily – especially in our own vineyards whose cool soils lead to later, slower ripening. But there’s a much higher risk of frosts. So viticulture and harvest date are more important than ever.’ Yet again, his experience and technical ability come into play. Not least in the 2024 harvest: ‘It could’ve been a disaster but we managed it very well. Making the right decisions [on harvest date] is crucial – a two-day delay might mean either heaven [optimum maturity] or hell [complete loss of crop].’ It is apparent, when speaking to Ausàs, that, empowered by the experience at one of the wine world's most complex wine jobs, he is now relaxing into this new chapter – and having fun. There’s a sense of both confidence and curiosity that somehow comes through in the wines. Ausàs personal project is an interesting addition to Ribera del Duero, bridging modern classicism and maverick curiosity – a useful reference point for both flagship producers and ‘new kids on the block’. ‘Don’t overlook the essence of Ribera,’ Ausàs says. And don’t ask the lazy man to do the busy man’s job. [/subscriber-content] Xavier Ausàs Interpretaciòn – all released vintages scored and tasted: Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. [wine-collection] Related content Ribera del Duero adopts the new old ways Ribera del Duero: Panel tasting results Ribera del Duero – five vintages you can enjoy now