In the wake of the official American single malt category recognition, a question begs some consideration. If there is now a definitive American style of whiskey, could there also be western-style?
The ‘spirit of the west’ is a concept thrown around, indicating pioneering determination, conjuring images of cowboys on horses and gritty landscapes. But in our modern day, do the western states embody a certain experimental style in whiskey making? Here are five distilleries making the case that they sure do.
Branding the barrels at Wyoming Whiskey
Wyoming
The first legal distillery in the state, Wyoming Whiskey embodies this western spirit. ‘The west is what defines it,’ says co-founder David DeFazio. ‘And by “west” I mean western-grown grains, natural yeasts that inevitably find their way into fermentation, and the maturation of barrels in rickhouses surrounded by sage and other rangeland grasses that aren’t found in other regions of the country.’
Distilled, aged and bottled in Kirby, WY (population: 76), the whiskeys are made using limestone water pulled from a nearby aquifer, plus local non-GMO grains. Ageing occurs at the distillery’s high-elevation rickhouse, where the extreme temperatures create more flavour in the barrel.
Wyoming Whiskey distillery at dusk
Colorado
Spirit Hound Distillers, based in the high-altitude town of Lyons, is named to embody the characteristics of a tenacious hound dog on the trail. Master Distiller and founder, Craig Engelhorn, started Spirit Hound in 2012 with a still he built himself, crafting award-winning American single malt whiskey. From the beginning he used 100% Colorado-grown malted barley.
Engelhorn boasts evidence that Colorado has a very special ageing environment and great water. ‘In the right environment, a whiskey doesn’t have to have a huge amount of age on it to be superb,’ he explains. ‘We are using St Vrain water… All of our spirits have a soft, sweet finish, and I attribute that to the flavour of the water.
These factors are part of the reason why Engelhorn believes there is a western-style of whiskey. In fact, he’s working on a map project, to indicate the styles and geographical boundaries within regional whiskeys around the US.
‘The east coast and west have different characteristics, and I think we can categorise those from each area,’ he says. He would also like to do a distillery barrel swap to test what different malts taste like in different environments.
Craig Engelhorn of Spirit Hound Distillers
Utah
With the word west in its name, High West Distillery in Park City is a prime example of a western-style producer. ‘Both our whiskey-making and our brand are inseparable from the west,’ confirms director of distilling, Isaac Winter. ‘We distil at nearly 2,135m in the mountains behind Park City and that elevation gives us a brighter, more floral new-make spirit – and helps shape how our whiskey matures.’
The distillery was founded in 2006 by Jane and David Perkins, opening with a 250-gallon (946-litre) still in a historic stable and garage. A main focus for the distillery is its blending philosophy, which ‘reflects a frontier mindset’ according to Winters.
‘We respect the classic profiles that define American whiskey, like rye spice balancing corn sweetness. But we’re not afraid to push further, layering pot and column still distillates to create blends with real depth and personality,’ he explains.
High West Rendezvous Rye Credit: High West Distillery
Oregon
In the middle of a sea of vineyards in the Willamette Valley in Oregon is Killdeer Distilling. Part of the Wine Country Whiskey Trail, this micro-distillery is a family-run business on a 2.8ha home farm. Drawing from a DIY heritage that the west was built on, Colin Fisher and his wife Kate Coulter started Killdeer 10 years ago. They built out the facilities and production space on their property by hand – along with raising two kids and farm animals.
Reflecting on a ‘western-style’, Fisher says: ‘The Old West was a time of bartering, lending a helping hand and sharing with your neighbours and family. Killdeer embodies that spirit every day – and our philosophy for making whiskey is similar to our everyday life.’
All Killdeer whiskies are made on the farm, each release showcasing the individuality of each. ‘Unlike commercial whiskeys that strive for a taste continuum, our whiskeys are single-barrel, and each barrel has a story to tell,’ explains Fisher.
‘Much like wine vintages, no two barrels are alike. Most importantly to us, we never chill-filter our whiskeys. This lack of refinement allows for full expression, leading to, in our humble opinion, a bolder, more full-bodied whiskey,’ he adds.
Fisher uses traditional charred new American white oak barrels, but also hand-chars select barrels using cherry and apple wood grown on the property. Fisher also experiments with some heritage flavours like ancient Khorasan wheat.
Colin Fisher and Kate Coulter of Killdeer Distilling
California
With images of dusty Gold Country in mind, it’s easy to forget that the ocean is a giant part of the west. Venus Spirits, located less than 1.6km from the crashing waves in Santa Cruz, was launched in 2013 by Sean Venus.
For him, the influence of the sea is a big part of what defines his whiskey. ‘All the whiskey has aged super close to the ocean. Sunlight heats up the building, ocean air cools it down. People say there’s an overarching salinity in our spirits,’ Venus says.
The use of local ingredients helps to make his Wayward Whiskey line ‘western’ in character according to Venus. ‘We are lucky to have all of those readily available here in California. Our rye is grown as a cover crop for organic farms here in the winter. And organic corn is a staple.’
He also emphasises that flavour of place is an expression of the barrel. ‘Every barrel is different. You can have two barrels with the same liquid going in, but two very different products coming out. We celebrate those differences… It’s more site specific, it captures the place and the time.’
Maturing barrels of Wayward Whiskey at Venus Spirits
Western whiskeys: five to try
High West Rendezvous Rye
Now offered seasonally and as a limited release, the Rendezvous includes a high amount of post still rye. The aromas are fruity and cosy, like a freshly baked cinnamon sugar-dusted berry pie, with hints of cocoa and orange. Flavours of baking spice, dates and toast with a long, creamy, ginger-kissed finish. Alc 46%
Killdeer Rye Whiskey
This flagship whiskey is KIlldeer’s oldest barrel to date at 52 months, using a mash bill of 66% rye, 18% malted barley and 16% corn. The prominent rye component gives an upfront spicy mouthfeel. Golden, honeyed color in the glass, with aromas of butterscotch and clove. Flavours of walnut and brown sugar with a round, polenta cake finish. Alc 45%
Spirit Hound American Single Malt Whisky Barrel #448
Each expression is single barrel, with no blending, and contains all Colorado-grown grains including 17% peated malt for a nod to Scotland. Barrel #448 is high toned, sweet and herbal. Flavours of cherry, toffee and a milk chocolate finish. Award-winning, including Best of Show and Whisky of the Year at the 2024 London Spirits Competition. Alc 45%
Wayward Whiskey Single Malt
The expression that started it all for Venus Spirits, this single malt uses certified organic ingredients and is distilled in an alembic still less than a mile from the ocean. Aromas of cherry and baked goods with chocolate and baking spice flavours on the warm finish. Alc 46%
Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey
Aged five years, containing 68% corn, 20% wheat and 12% malted barley. Floral aromas, with a touch of vanilla caramel. Brown butter and baking spice flavours linger on this medium-bodied, amber-hued sipper. Alc 44%
