Over the centuries, the wine world has rarely faced a scenario quite as daunting as today’s: steep new US tariffs on European alcohol imports, coupled with declining global demand for wine.
When asked about the business impacts of these challenges, Michael Kaiser, Executive Vice President and Director of Government Affairs for USA winegrower lobbyist WineAmerica, had a blunt response: ‘This whole thing is a giant mess.’
Scroll down for tasting notes of Flying Blue’s wines
Confronting an unpredictable market
‘Right now, the biggest challenge is uncertainty,’ Kaiser emphasises, stressing that some businesses ‘are waiting to see what Trump does next. They simply don’t know what is going to happen.’
From large to small importers, the impacts are already palpable. Wine Educator Bob Trimble, who founded boutique importer La Lumière Sélections ten years ago to fill a niche in the Pennsylvania market, explains how his company is feeling the pinch. ‘Without clarity on future policy, it’s extremely difficult to move forward with confidence,’ Trimble notes – by committing to a shipment ‘I risk losing my entire profit margin – or worse, taking a loss on the order’ if tariffs are increased before the wines reach the US. A significant tariff, he notes, could effectively mean the end of his importing business.
Larger companies are also concerned about the effects of the unpredictable US tariff regime. ‘It could severely impact our international programme,’ says John Poggemeyer, director of wine and beer for Heinen’s, a grocery store chain with 19 stores in Cleveland, Ohio, and four in the Chicago metropolitan area. In Ohio, as in Pennsylvania, pricing is tightly regulated. By law, distributors and retailers must apply a minimum markup on wines they purchase from wineries. This eliminates competition on pricing: whether it’s Costco, Heinen’s or Sam’s Club, every retailer in Ohio sells the same bottle at the same price. ‘We’ve built strong relationships with estate and legacy producers,’ Poggemeyer adds, ‘and those wines could become unattainable at the price points our margins demand.’
Staff driving through vineyards at White Cloud winery in Marlborough, New Zealand. Credit: Richard Briggs.
Listening to consumers
Both Poggemeyer and Trimble also emphasise that all is not yet lost – and that savvy wine consumers are still looking for the same things even in this uncertain market. ‘My focus has always been on working with producers who are authentic, passionate and dedicated to crafting wines of integrity and character,’ says Trimble. Poggemeyer argues that consumers’ underlying needs are unchanged: ‘People want wines with a story or a sense of authenticity, especially authenticity of place.’
In these turbulent times, consumers can take comfort in the carefully curated selections from importers such as Flying Blue (highlights below).
‘There’s always a market for great wine,’ remarks Ryan Kepler, President of Flying Blue Imports. ‘At Flying Blue, we’re sharing the weight of tariffs across true partners – producers, importers and distributors – because we all believe they’re temporary and we’re in this for the long run. Today’s consumer is savvier than ever. They want wines with not just a passport, but a ‘birth certificate’ – authenticity, story and soul.’
Flying Blue wines to try
Aleixo, Family Collection Grande Reserva Tinto, Bairrada, Portugal 2022
94pts
A decidedly mineral-driven red, with a bold mix of black and redcurrant fruit laced with ironstone and a distinct, earthy minerality. Aromatics of toffee, coffee and a subtle hint of brown sugar add richness and depth. Medium-bodied on the palate, supported by the fresh bite of pomegranate seed-like acidity, giving the wine both structure and lift.
Alc 13.5%
Aleixo, Praia, Vinho Regional Beira Atlântico, Portugal 2022
93pts
An easy-going table wine offering crunchy red berry fruit, dusty minerals, Mediterranean herbs and a touch of vanilla and lilac – more precisely, lilacs. There’s a subtle sweetness on the palate and gentle tannins that glide to a satisfying finish. A blend of the great Portuguese varieties Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.
Alc 13%
Domaine Mickaël Mothe Chablis, France 2023
93pts
Lemon-bright with aromas of lime blossom and wet slate. The palate is finely balanced, driven by racy acidity and lifted by a subtle note of candied ginger on the finish.
Alc 12%
Monnalisa, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Italy 2022
95pts
A blockbuster of a wine, powerful and unapologetically bold, with a glass-staining ruby-purple hue. The nose is packed with ripe mulberry, blackberry jam, fig and chocolate-covered coffee beans. Full-bodied and bursting with candied red berry fruit, crushed rose petals and rich underbrush, the palate builds into soaring tannins that gradually resolve into a finish of crushed stone and cinnamon-spiced oak. The label – a graffiti-style rendition of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa – mirrors the wine’s complexity: edgy, expressive and quietly contemplative, much like her enigmatic gaze.
Alc 15.5%
North Wind, Vidal Icewine Reserve, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada 2023
93pts
A rich, fragrant nose of nectarine, honeysuckle, pineapple and candied melon. The palate is luscious, silky and supremely smooth, leading to a lingering finish of dried apricots and drizzled wildflower honey.
Alc 10.5%
Under the Tuscan Sun, Rosso, Tuscany, Italy 2023
93pts
This Rosso Toscana is classic Italy in a glass – fragrant with notes of blackcurrant, underbrush, black olive and rose petals. The medium-bodied palate is built on a framework of supple tannins, while juicy acidity brings lift and energy, edged with a subtle saline snap on the finish.
Alc 13%
Under the Tuscan Sun, Chardonnay, Tuscany, Italy 2023
92pts
A rather irresistible Chardonnay that is ripe, full-throttle and richly layered with lemon curd, butterscotch, pineapple and honeysuckle. The palate is lush and rounded, unfolding with warm brown spices, clove and a hint of vanilla pastry. Decadent, yet balanced and unapologetically expressive.
Alc 12.5%
White Cloud, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2024
91pts
Fragrant notes of sea grass mingle with white flowers, tropical guava and a flinty mineral edge. The palate is bright, clean and racy, with just a kiss of sweetness and loads of crunchy green apple, pear and kiwi, all framed by citrus-driven acidity and taut tension.
Alc 13%
Scores were generated as part of a non-blind tasting, and all wines were supplied to Decanter free of charge to feature in paid for content.
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