To say that wine regions find themselves at a crossroads in the age of climate change, economic uncertainty and geopolitical turmoil, has become a tired cliché. Although both viticulture and oenology face unprecedented challenges, this also means that from these testing times the true potential of each region will become more apparent – with perhaps somewhat overlooked or unexpected places emerging as unlikely champions of the future.
This might certainly be the case with DO Toro, the 5,500-hectare appellation cradled by the Duero river, where a reassessment of tradition and a vibrant new generation of winemakers and entrepreneurs have catalysed a true renaissance in the last couple of decades. DO Toro brings a message of continuity, renewal and hope – much needed in these times of uncertainty and transience.
The vineyards of DO Toro.
Learning from the past
The many frictions of the present have called upon historical regions to look to the past for clues on how to build a sustainable future. Tradition and heritage have proven invaluable toolkits to tackle a complex puzzle of extreme weather events, water scarcity and rising production costs.
Regions like Toro leverage thousands of years of viticultural history woven with the social, economic and political development and identity, standing as examples of ongoing learning and ability to evolve as times and
circumstances change.
The wines of Toro once supplied the royal and Papal courts and travelled with Christopher Columbus to America; its people and vines have weathered many storms – of all kinds. The ability to commit to a landscape and craft have defined the region, a path that offers both inspiration and a blueprint for other regions grappling with present challenges.
Toro vineyards.
In October 2025, a strong contingent from DO Toro travelled to London to present a selection of wines and talk with the British trade and consumers. During the event, a masterclass, presented by Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain, Ines Salpico, offered a comprehensive view of the region’s identity and potential – both present and future. Below we delve into the topics Salpico touched on throughout the session to help bring Toro’s potential into focus, as a way to better understand the textured, sometimes overlooked, complexity of the region.
Terroir diversity
The first myth to debunk when trying to understand the vines and wines of Toro is that the region is geologically homogenous. There is in fact an impressive diversity of soil profiles, at times changing dramatically in composition and texture within the same plot. Salpico recalled the experience, when visiting Bodegas Elias Mora, of standing at the bottom of a clay-rich rust-hued slope, only to be surprised that the other side was a Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like spectacle of rolling pebbles.
The region boasts an impressive diversity of soils.
In tandem with the different exposure, this means significantly different growing cycles, picking times, aromatic profile and tannic structure for the grapes grown on each side – a microuniverse of viticultural complexity in little more than a hectare.
This anecdotal snapshot helps to explain the variety seen in Toro’s wines within each vintage. But an equally important factor has to do with the plants themselves. DO Toro is among the regions with the highest percentage of old vines, boasting 125 hectares aged 100 years and more, and 1,175 hectares aged between 50 and 100 years. Overall, nearly 50% of Toro’s vineyards are more than 35 years old.
Old vines in DO Toro.
Such an invaluable natural asset is a source of complexity and diversity born out of genetic heterogeneity – not merely contributing to the quality of the wines but also to Toro’s climate resilience. These are vines that have survived and adapted to the specific conditions of this landscape for centuries.
Hence why ‘Tinta de Toro’ expresses itself so differently from Tempranillo outside DO Toro – some indeed arguing that it is sufficiently genetically discrete to warrant its recognition as a distinct variety (something to fuel lively discussions in Toro’s bars, many of which function over the old, atmospheric cave-like cellars). There are research efforts underway – backed by producers in partnership with multiple research institutions – to collect and preserve the precious genetic material from Toro’s oldest plots.
The meaning of terroir
Many might also be unfamiliar with the craftsmanship and labour involved in caring for Toro’s vines. The region is not a place of extensive, mechanised land-holdings or prescriptive viticultural practices. It is, rather, a landscape of family-owned small holdings where working the land is synonymous with the rhythm of life – something that, according to Salpico, really makes her feel at home in the region.
Harvest time in the region.
A total of 64 wineries supports a network of 905 growers with their intricate mosaic of plots – a symbiotic relationship between institutions and individuals, men and landscape that is, to large extent, the core of Toro’s identity as well as the secret of its viticultural lineage and continuity.
Old vines and diverse soils, poor in organic matter, deliver naturally low yields of concentrated, deeply aromatic fruit. More loosely distributed, the bunches experience natural aeration which, in combination with the region’s moderate precipitation levels and extended sunshine hours, allow for a naturally sustainable viticulture, with little need for treatments.
Of the total area under vine, only 1,572ha (28.6%) are trellised; the remaining are bush- trained plots, painstakingly tended to and harvested by hand. A jeweller’s work that preserves the integrity of the healthy berries.
Freshly harvested berries.
It’s this continuum between vineyard and man, plant and hand that truly makes Toro and its wines unique; a place where both the natural and human dimension of terroir have been perfectly woven for centuries.
Stylistic flex
All of the above shatters the common assumption about Tinta de Toro delivering a specific, immediately recognisable style of wine. Yet it’s not just viticulture that explains diversity and nuance. Recognisable as it is, the fact is that inherent to the character of Tinta de Toro – with its trademark concentration and depth – is a plasticity that affords versatility, a complexity that lends itself to different stylistic approaches and winemaking philosophies.
Vines of DO Toro in in the Autumn.
Further to the different dimensions brought in by genetic and geological diversity, Tinta de Toro is able to express the identity of winemakers and projects in an exciting way – thus conveying another aspect that makes DO Toro is both interesting and forward- looking: a diverse, multi-generational community of growers and producers.
Of the many Toro wineries which are longstanding family-run businesses, most are now led by the younger generations eager to experiment, reassess tradition and move on to a lower-intervention, lighter-handed approach. This translates into more diverse ranges that include carbonic maceration, concrete and amphorae-aged Tinta de Toros alongside the more traditional oak-aged expressions; offering a renewed, deeper understanding of the variety and of the remarkable ageing potential of its wines.
DO Toro vines.
Meanwhile, the region has also attracted talent from elsewhere in Spain – and beyond – drawn to the region’s unique heritage and flagship variety. Collaborations between leading producers and local growers have been a great source of development and innovation, promoting a reevaluation of tradition that combines fresh eyes with generations of accumulated knowledge. A creative interplay that has opened new possibilities for Toro, built upon its historical foundations, technical expertise and desire to evolve.
Different shades of Toro’s versatility and diversity goes beyond its flagship, eponymous variety. The quality of the region’s terroirs and talent of the local community of winemakers is also being put to good use with other grape varieties used – either entirely or as balancing components in blends with Tinta de Toro.
Garnacha’s plantings might have significantly fallen in the 20th century but the variety is having a slow but sure return to Toro. Producers are recognising the region’s potential to produce characterful iterations of Garnacha – itself experiencing a reappreciation across Spain – that lean on the expressive aromatics and creaminess it naturally develops in Toro.
The wines of DO Toro.
Producers are achieving great things with Verdejo and Malvasia, balancing complex bouquets with plenty of structure and, crucially, moreish texture. Toro’s white wines are, like their red counterparts, made for the pleasures of the table.
This is the key that unlocks the essence of Toro wines: they are best enjoyed in the same way they evolved – as part of a rich wine and food culture, in which drinking, eating and socialising overlap completely. Buying a bottle of Toro is a gateway into a tradition undergoing exciting renewal, while supporting the preservation of a precious natural and cultural heritage.
• If you missed Toro’s tasting and masterclass in London in 2025, keep an eye out for the 2026 edition of what promises to be an even more diverse and vibrant event.
Beyond reds: sparkling and whites to try
Bodega Liberalia, Ariane Espumoso 2024
89pts
Sabor Zamorano Ltd
A refreshing, pure and linear Brut Nature, with uncompromising zestiness, showing the potential of Verdejo to produce quality traditional method sparkling. Lovely pure notes of lime zest, white grapefruit and green apple. Mouthwatering acidity and freshness with a mineral edge.
Drink 2026-2027 Alcohol 12%
Bodega Mazas, Mazas Verdejo 2024
93pts
Ultracomida Ltd
Fermented and aged for eight months in French oak barrels. This is a wonderful, moreish expression of Verdejo that marries the variety’s vibrant citrus and white stone fruit with a delicious nuttiness of toasted almonds and toasted bread. Dry hay, red apple peel, fennel seed and pear add crunch and nuance. Long finish with a tingling tail of white pepper and cardamom.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13%
Bodegas Piedra, Lagarona 2022
93pts
Seeking UK representation
Hailing from vineyards planted in 1945, this wine has a beautiful nose, detailed and slightly herbal, mingling rosemary oil, lemon, hay, chamomile and verbena. Great texture and fluidity. Mineral freshness underpins the blanched almonds, fleshy nuts, pear peel and yellow apple flavours. Elegant finish, with a seam of wild flowers and hay. Great ageing potential here.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%
Bodegas San Román, Malvasía 2023
92pts
City Wine Collection
A very elegant, pure expression of Malvasía. Mellifluous and juicy, filling the mouth with clementine juice, ripe pear, melon, yellow apple, mango and green papaya – all topped with fennel and jasmine. Tingling, zesty spice to the finish.
Drink 2026-2029 Alc 13.5%
Bodegas Fariña, Colegiata Malvasía 2024
91pts
C&D Wines and Foods Ltd
This wine uses fruit from old vines, including some prephylloxera vines, attesting to the variety’s lineage in Toro. Offering a fragrant, nuanced nose of rose petals, bayleaf and rosemary oil. Lovely roundness on the palate, with melon, passionfruit, papaya, peach and nectarine, topped by jasmine and orange blossom.
Drink 2026-2028 Alc 12.5%
Bodega Liberalia, Pajarita 2024
91pts
Sabor Zamorano Ltd
Really lovely flinty edge on the nose, underpinning the lime zest and white grapefruit citrus. At the core, there’s Asian pear, guava, yellow apple and clementine zest. Subtle unctuosity, with work on the lees bringing a welcome gentle creaminess. A touch of blanched almonds and hay adds further intrigue. Enjoy with seared scallops. Lovely texture and persistence.
Drink 2026-2027 Alc 13%
Exploring Garnacha’s potential
Bodega Mazas, Mazas Roble 2023
94pts
Ultracomida Ltd
A truly delicious, poised wine, with beautiful integration of alcohol and wood. A pleasant chewiness to the savoury tannins, coated in dark chocolate, black cherry sorbet and dried herbs. Classical yet modern, very well crafted.
Drink 2026 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Viñaguareña, Tres Julias 2022
93pts
Solaris Wines
Fluidity, freshness and poise. A beautiful, vivid Garnacha: crunchy red cherry, cranberry, wild strawberry and pomegranate carrying the alcohol with dangerous ease. Lovely acidity and juiciness. A touch of rhubarb and cranberry juice add a sweet- and-sour edge.
Drink 2026-2028 Alc 15%
Bodegas Piedra, Crianza 2021
93pts
Seeking UK representation
A blend of Tinta de Toro and Garnacha (20%), the latter bringing red fruit juiciness and floral nuance to the black fruit core. Cranberry and pomegranate over a bed of plum jam; a rim of salty liquorice and pink pepper. Long, moreish finish smoky tail of forest floor.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 15%
Bodegas Torreduero, Peñamonte Garnacha Tinta 2023
92pts
PH Wines Merchants, Alejandro Wines Ltd
A characterful, fruit-led, unmistakable Garnacha, with a beautiful, floral nose of ripe red cherries, cranberry and rose petals, following through on the palate, with a juicy fruit core, subtly coated in mountain herbs. Creamy and lifted; sheer pleasure.
Drink 2026-2027 Alc 14.5%
Where complexity meets drinkability
Bodega Campo Elíseo, Contracorriente 2024
92pts
Seeking UK representation
Robust yet elegant, with a herbal verve. Creamy cherry, plum and blueberry fruit, a sorbet-like texture, with thyme, oregano, sage and liquorice root. Deftly integrated alcohol. Savoury tannins, coated in liquorice and dried black olives. Approachable yet poised. Lovely zesty finish. Organic certified.
Drink 2026-2027 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Quinta Quietud, Corral de Campanas 2022
92pts
Pata Negra Spanish Food Ltd
A juicy core of red and blue fruit bursts in the mouth, bringing freshness and softness to this approachable Tinta de Toro with a zesty energy throughout. The tannins are lined with savoury oregano, thyme, fennel and green olive tapenade.
Drink 2026-2029 Alc 15%
Bodega Vetus, Flor de Vetus 2022
92pts
Liberty Wines
Unpretentious yet complex, vivid flavours of cranberry, cherry and ripe strawberry fruit, lifted by rhubarb edge and red apple crunch. Herbal and zesty quality to the tannins, which support the alcohol with fragrant and grippy energy.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 14%
Bodega Covitoro, Matsu El Recio 2023
91pts
Majestic
It’s easy to see why this very recognisable Toro has had such commercial success. A modern take on tradition, equal amounts of definition, weight and poise. Vivid, spicy tannins, coated in liquorice, white and black pepper, support the plum and blackberry fruit. Smoky thyme, cocoa and Assam.
Drink 2026-2028 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Rodríguez y Sanzo, Tras la Yesca 2023
90pts
Oakley Wine Agencies
A fun, juicy take on Tinta de Toro, with juicy cherry, plum and blackberry filling and gliding through the mouth with dangerous ease. A playful touch of blood orange adds further energy and lift. Best enjoyed slightly chilled.
Drink 2026-2027 Alc 14%
Stylistic diversity, vintage expression & a sense of place
Bodega Bigardo, Calma 2022
95pts
Seeking UK representation
Fluidity and detail in a wine that accomplishes remarkable balance and integration of wood and alcohol. Creamy cherry and blackberry fruit outlined by beautifully presented tannins, lined with powdery graphite. Red apple and plum add crunch. Drinking beautifully, but still with great ageing potential.
Drink 2026-2034 Alc 15%
Bodega Sobreño, Finca Sobreño Ildefonso 2020
94pts
Seeking UK representation
Remarkable youthfulness six years on, with juiciness and vibrancy. Mineral quality to the tannins, lending freshness to the cherry, pomegranate and green olive core. Rhubarb and blood orange add an intriguing edge and zesty twist to the finish. Lovely fluidity. Touches of tobacco and forest floor play in the background.
Drink 2026-2034 Alc 15%
Bodegas Vatan, Triton 2022
94pts
Seeking UK representation
Very elegant, with a long life ahead. Robust, muscular tannins, yet also zesty and somehow refreshing, lifting the juicy red cherry, cranberry, plum, pomegranate and wild strawberry jam flavours. Top fragrant notes of parma violets and camphor. Great vibrancy and purity throughout. Long finish, with a spicy, refreshing tail.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15%
Bodega Vetus, Celsus 2023
93pts
Liberty Wines
Still quite coiled and with a lot of potential to evolve. Muscularly savoury but immediately appealing. Cocoa nibs and roasted coffee beans mingle with plum and blackberry. Tinta de Toro adds a welcome liquorice root edge, while Garnacha brings a floral nuance. Superb integration of wood and alcohol. Lovely spicy finish.
Drink 2026-2038 Alc 15%
Bodegas Fariña, Lágrima 2023
93pts
C&D Wines and Foods Ltd
An earthy texture, appetising brininess and red juicy fruit are the foundations of this balanced, alluring wine. Soft plum, mulberry and black olive mingle on the palate, supported by tannins coated in tobacco and forest floor. Persistent finish with lingering sweet fruit, offset by a smoky frame.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 14%
Bodega Maires, Ademán Valdecarretas 2022
93pts
Quaff Fine Wine
Lovely detail and purity of flavour in this Tinta de Toro, aged 20 months in French oak, with deft integration of wood and alcohol. Black cherry, blackberry and blackcurrant fill the mouth, carried by a vibrant, robust acid line. Drinking beautifully now, but with great ageing potential.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15.5%
Bodega Quinta Quietud, Quinta Quietud 2020
93pts
Pata Negra Spanish Food Ltd
Poised and balanced, well-managed extraction and alcohol integration. Juicy black and blue fruit at the core, cloaked in thyme, oregano and sage. Sweet cherry and plum jam on the edges, with tobacco, wet leaves and camphor. Still amazing ageing potential.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 15.5%
Bodega La Guardesa de Toro, La Huella de Romeo 2024
92pts
Seeking UK representation
Lovely tannic structure, with liquorice and pink pepper. Powerful yet approachable. Fruit intensity perfectly offset by acid verve. A crunchy layer of red apple and nectarine encloses a juicy poached plum and ripe cherry core. Drinking very well, some ageing potential.
Drink 2026-2034 Alc 15%
Bodega Divina Proporción, 24 Mozas 2023
91pts
Seeking UK representation
Versatile and made for food, combining dark and crunchier red fruit. Cherry (both red and black), blueberry, plum jam and blackberry mingle on the palate, lifted by blood orange zestiness and red apple crunch. Rose petals and dried herbs play in the background.
Drink 2026-2028 Alc 14.5%
2021: A vintage of nuance and elegance
Bodegas San Román, San Román 2021
95pts
City Wine Collection
Deep and elegant with deft integration of both wood and alcohol. A beautiful layer of spice and dried herbs coats the Marcona almonds, green olives, blackcurrant and mulberry that fill the mouth. Assam and tobacco leaves add smoky nuance throughout. Long finish with a tail of salty liquorice and tapenade.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Francisco Casas, Viña Abba 2021
93pts
Myliko Wines
With unpretentious rusticity, this is an honest, appealing wine with an earnest broodiness and inviting depth. Macerated mountain herbs mingle on the palate supported by nuances of mahogany, fig leaves and liquorice. Plum and blackberry juiciness at the core. A wine with great potential in bottle.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15%
Bodega Viñaguareña, Munia Especial 2021
93pts
Solaris Wines
Lovely expression of Tinta de Toro, developing beautifully in bottle, with broody, earthy classicism. Expressive combination of wet soil, tobacco leaves, burnt caramel, prune and red apple in the mouth. Tannins are muscular but beautifully cloaked in dry herbs and dry rose petals. Long finish, with a zesty pull.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15%
Bodega Rejadorada, Aier 2021
93pts
House of Townend
Intense but pure expression of Tinta de Toro, fully vinified in amphorae, which outlines the depth of the fruit and the earthy savouriness, while giving a textured roundness to the tannins. Assertive, pulled back by a firm acid line, lifting the plum, black olive and blackberry at the core. A wine with great potential to develop with idiosyncrasy and freshness.
Drink 2026-2033 Alc 15%
Bodega Bigardo, Bigardo 2021
91pts
Seeking UK representation
Such an alluring, authentic rusticity to this Tinta de Toro that has lots of character and sense of place. There’s an easy, juicy fluidity at the core with plum and blackberry but also crunchy red apple peel. The tannins are earthy and pleasantly chewy. Great acid drive and lively zesty twist to the finish.
Drink 2026-2029 Alc 14.5%
Worth the wait: Toro’s ageing potential
Bodega Rodríguez y Sanzo, El Teso Alto 2017
95pts
Oakley Wine Agencies
Assertive, structured and layered yet elegant and fresh. The plum and blackberry fruit is sprinkled with black and white pepper, fennel seed, star anise and salty liquorice. Lots of smoky tannins and muscle but also drive. Briny finish with a long tail of green olive tapenade. Still plenty of life in it.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15%
Bodega Numanthia, Termanthia 2016
94pts
Moët Hennessy UK Ltd
Numanthia’s distinct flinty outline frames this 2016, so that, while drinking very well, it will still benefit from time in bottle. Rockrose and violets lift the earthy nose of sotobosque and prune, under a veil of cinnamon and white pepper. Muscular, smoky tannins support the ripe black and blue fruit. Lavender, oregano and thyme add depth and freshness.
Drink 2026-2035 Alc 15%
Bodega Bucrana, Bucrana Tau 2019
94pts
Seeking UK representation
A deep and broody expression of Tinta de Toro: beautiful, nuanced development yet great vividness. Liquorice, green olive tapenade and plum, supported by muscular yet elegant tannins coated in Assam and Oolong tea. Tingling, refreshing spice throughout. Still with great potential to develop.
Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Elías Mora, Elias Mora 2015
94pts
Georges Barbier of London Ltd
Ageing beautifully, herbal nuances line the plum, fig, dried cherry and plum fruit. Fragrant Earl Grey, tobacco leaves, forest floor and crushed violets add aromatic complexity and earthy appeal. Savoury tannins, coated in black olive tapenade and salty liquorice. Still plenty of time ahead of it.
Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Frontaura, Aponte Reserva 2018
95pts
Seeking UK representation
Classically robust, with intense blackberry, plum and black olive tapenade on a bed of forest floor, dark chocolate, dried tobacco leaves and coffee beans. Well-honed tannic structure; muscular but with a moreish oily savouriness. Long finish with lingering petrichor and plum.
Drink 2026-2030 Alc 14.5%
Bodega Rejadorada, Sango de Rejadorada 2018
93pts
House of Townend
It’s truly remarkable how this wine preserves the lively pomegranate and cranberry juiciness underneath the broody chocolate, coffee, tobacco and liquorice. It really shows the ageing potential of Tinta de Toro, with its balance of intensity and brightness. Smoky nuance to the assertive tannins. Still plenty of development potential.
Drink 2026-2032 Alc 15%
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