The ethical drinker: How the understated Loire became an environmental pioneer

The Loire Valley has always been a quietly confident wine region. Stretching 300km along the river and its tributaries, it encompasses more than 65 official designations, from Muscadet on the Atlantic coast to Sancerre in the east. The area now enjoys UNESCO recognition for its cultural landscape, too. Ahead of the curve [subscriber-content]Given its size, two bodies represent the Loire’s producers and strategy: InterLoire, which represents about three-quarters of the entire Loire wine region from Muscadet through to Touraine, and the BIVC, which covers the eight specific appellations that make up the geographically distinct Centre-Loire region, which includes Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Though they're administratively distinct, the combined result is impressive: the region has arguably the most forward-looking and complete sustainability roadmap in French wine. How has this come about? In short, the Loire is a region of small, multigenerational domaines, so families live and breathe the vineyards, experiencing change first-hand and often more acutely. Ahead of its time, the BIVC's technical arm SICAVAC has been supporting Centre-Loire producers since 1994. Founded and funded by growers for growers, it is unique in France, conducting research, vineyard monitoring, laboratory analysis, R&D, training and newsletters that flag forecasted issues and how to mitigate them. By the late 1990s, while many other regions were preoccupied with marketing, the Loire was setting ambitious environmental targets, and nudging growers towards more sustainable farming. A resilience ‘toolbox’ In 2000, it began precision terroir mapping across the whole wine-growing region – an area of about 66,000ha. Thirteen years later, the results were made available online via the E-terroir platform, which now provides detailed maps of both soils and water. Then, in 2018, InterLoire launched a program, led by the French Vine and Wine Institute, around heritage and new grape varieties. ‘This work is about building a library of genetic diversity so growers can match plant material to shifting soils and climates,’ says Etienne Goulet, InterLoire’s technical director. This was followed, the next year, by the launch of Le Plan Filière Loire 2030, a strategic roadmap for the region’s wine industry. The first of its kind in France, it included targets for environmental certifications, such as organic and Terra Vitis (sustainable wine-growing). Foundations were also laid for a shared ‘toolbox’, that would be accessible to everyone from educators to growers. Among the tools in that toolbox are the Agroclimatic Atlas, which provides data on climatic evolution and its potential long-term impact on terroir and varietal suitability, and Loire Météo, which delivers hyper-local weather forecasts and disease alerts to guide vineyard decisions. While resilience tools are impressive, reducing wine’s carbon footprint must also stay front of mind. Intent from the top is clear, and the WinePilot platform, rolled out by InterLoire from late 2024, enables growers and wine companies to measure their carbon footprints and identify reduction pathways. There’s also new funding for a major bottle-reuse campaign and for helping growers invest in energy-efficient equipment. Mitigations & frustrations [caption id="attachment_574623" align="aligncenter" width="1300"] François Dal, technical expert at the SICAVAC. Credit: Natalie Earl[/caption] With such ambitious plans however, it’s worth asking how much is actually filtering down to producers. The big-picture results are encouraging. The plan aims for organic or HVE (High Environmental Value) certification for 100% of the region’s vineyard area by 2030. According to InterLoire, 85% was already there by 2023. The BIVC has also recorded a five-fold increase in certification in just five years. ‘We know change is hard, so we’re focused on finding practical solutions to the technical challenges raised by this environmental commitment,’ says François Dal, technical expert at the SICAVAC. Goulet says: ‘Tool usage among producers is strong and steadily increasing, but we’re working to expand adoption further by raising awareness and demonstrating relevance.’ On the ground, however, I found many winemakers were keen to emphasise the upsides of warmer vintages and riper wines. Others seemed so accustomed to environmental directives that they no longer viewed them as remarkable. Yet when pushed, several acknowledged growing threats, such as vine disease flavescence dorée. Most also admitted that each new vintage now brings weather extremes of some sort, testing resilience every year. Results in the glass For wine drinkers, this isn’t simply academic. Without vigilance, climatic pressures will mean rising prices, loss of vinous identity and patchy quality. Extra ripeness isn’t always a drawback for Loire wines but already, it’s tipping towards the edge. The Loire’s proactive stance aims to safeguard its wines' unique characteristics, meaning Cabernet Franc retains its fragrant poise and Sauvignon remains elegant, for example, while ensuring they always speak of place. There is obviously still plenty to be done, but the Loire seems better placed than many other regions to face the challenges ahead. In the meantime, in the spirit of collaboration the plan champions so well, it will also fall to us as wine lovers to help tell their story. Sip to make a difference: Loire wines to try Domaine Théo Blet, La Peyanne, Saumur Blanc 2023 100% organic Chenin Blanc, balancing delicate floral aromatics with a textured palate of apricot and white peach. Lulu l’Alouette, Chinon, 2023 Perfumed and silky, with notes of spiced raspberry and graphite, this is an elegant, easy-drinking Cabernet Franc. [/subscriber-content] Related articles The ethical drinker: ‘Community is the answer’ The ethical drinker: Biochar – the secret to the soils, and wines, of the future? The ethical drinker: The big blue: winemakers’ quiet ally?

The ethical drinker: How the understated Loire became an environmental pioneer

Ahead of the curve

Related articles

The ethical drinker: ‘Community is the answer’

The ethical drinker: Biochar – the secret to the soils, and wines, of the future?

The ethical drinker: The big blue: winemakers’ quiet ally?

Latest Wine News

The ethical drinker: How the understated Loire became an environmental pioneer

Essential oils and the fight against mildew: What producers around the world can learn from an estate in Costières de Nîmes

Tickets on Sale! Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York returns to the top of Manhattan

Ned Goodwin MW: ‘Later-ripening Syrah represents an exciting new frontier for Tasmania as the climate warms’

Kylie Minogue presents Andrew Jefford with Lifetime Achievement Award