For two months in the spring of 2016, my postal address was ‘Château Palmer’. I was an intern at the Margaux third growth estate, and the deal included some temporary lodgings. Not being French, and having never lived in the countryside, this was quite a departure for me. But I liked living in Margaux. The clean air, the silence and the expansive sky set it apart from anywhere I’ve lived before or since. The vines were a plus, too.
I’ve long since left, moving house half a dozen times, moving country even. The place has stayed with me, though, the landscape etched into my mind: approaching Margaux from Cantenac along the D2 ‘route des châteaux’, the expanse of vines on one side, the walls of Château d’Issan on the other, the turrets and flags of Palmer up ahead in the distance. The Médoc may not be the prettiest wine region in the world, but there is beauty to be found – and you need look no further than Margaux.
Exploring the châteaux
Bordeaux is not as closed-off to the world as some would have you believe. It’s possible to rock up to various wineries unannounced for a tasting, at least, and occasionally an impromptu tour. Many have impressive boutiques, where you can buy everything from back vintages to wine accessories, honey and more. That said, this is France, and most châteaux prefer to do things by appointment. You’ll get a lot more from the experience if you plan – and book – ahead.
Around one quarter of Margaux’s wineries are part of the 1855 classification, more than anywhere else in the Médoc. Don’t overlook the appellation’s many unclassified estates, though. Some of these supposedly lower-profile châteaux offer world-class hospitality, occasionally putting far loftier names to shame. (See websites for booking details.)
The English-French Sichel family of Château Angludet, south of Cantenac, are well known for their classic claret. Slightly less well appreciated, perhaps, is their focus on tourism and hospitality: food-and-wine experiences at La Terrasse Fleurie, an idyllic tasting area under a veteran chestnut tree, start from €15, with private tours from €20. Château Paveil de Luze at Soussans will do you a tour and seasonal picnic lunch for €42 per person. And if you’ve ever wondered what it’d be like to taste wine in a nuclear bomb shelter, Château Siran in Labarde offers a vertical tasting in its subterranean bunker for €45 per person (and free for under-16s), or alternatively an escape game for up to eight people (€25), as well as other tours and activities.
Relax and revitalise under the shade of a century-old chestnut tree on La Terrasse Fleurie, Château Angludet. Credit: Mya Photography
Not all of the classified growths are open to the public. First growth Château Margaux, for instance, only offers tastings for wine professionals, but you can arrange to visit this stunning property, and its impressive cellars, by appointment. If there’s a particular château you’re keen to visit and you’re not sure, check its website. Most of them will have an email address or a contact form for enquiries.
To suit all tastes
There’s no shortage of top estates you can visit, though. Many offer a range of options at different prices; some offer both public and private tours, with the latter generally more expensive. Margaux Tourism is a useful resource to explore what’s available in more detail, and most estates will provide a list of their tours and tastings online.
Charming Château du Tertre, near Arsac, offers visits starting from €18 per person and also has guest rooms, as well as a gorgeous outdoor pool. Just north of Cantenac, historic Château d’Issan boasts an actual moat and has a range of tours starting from €30 per person. At Château Marquis de Terme, you can explore the 1855 Médoc Classification in depth with a tasting of one wine from each of the seven appellations featured (Workshop Grands Crus Classés, €120 per person for two hours). Bike hire is also available here, at €30 per day. At Château Kirwan, near Cantenac, the top package among several lets you taste a young wine directly from barrel, followed by tasting a special vintage year of your choice (€160 per person).
Château d’Issan. Credit: François Poincet
For something a little different, try Château Ferrière. Based in the village of Margaux itself, the estate belongs to Claire and Gonzague Lurton, whose portfolio also includes nearby Château Durfort-Vivens. You’ll learn all about the couple’s focus on regenerative viticulture and biodynamics, and this may be the only tasting room in the Médoc where you can sip a natural orange wine in between your grands crus classés. Tours start from €25 per person.
Now, never let it be said that the Bordelais aren’t creative. Château Giscours, near Labarde, has devised the world’s first wine-and-magic ‘mystery tour’ (from €80 per person), for example. Notable, too, is its ongoing series of events, La Terrasse de Giscours, at which you can taste the estate’s wines in a relaxed setting with food and live music. Château Dauzac, east of Labarde, offers an e-scooter tour of the vineyard; for €59 per person, get up close and personal with the vines without breaking a sweat.
Château Dauzac’s group e-scooter tour: explore the vineyards the easy way. Credit: Florent Larronde
There have been some noteworthy developments in Margaux in recent years. The recently finished raw-earth cellar at Château Cantenac Brown, south of Margaux village, is an impressive architectural feat in and of itself, particularly when compared with the distinctive Tudor manor-style château. Château Lascombes, also close to Margaux village, is now part of a leading Napa Valley-based group headed up by Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy Jr, so you can expect their hospitality efforts to ramp up considerably. For the time being, tours start from €35 per person, with bespoke options available.
Château Cantenac Brown. Credit: Luc Boegly
If you want to truly immerse yourself in the Margaux appellation, Château Palmer, on the D2 road at Issan, is rolling out its individually tailored new Promenade tour this season (€460 per person, Tuesday to Friday; book via email on hospitality@chateau-palmer.com). Taking the best part of a day in all, each visit will be slightly different, a ‘made-to-measure’ experience based on your interests and the time you have available. You’ll take a ride or a walk around the estate, stopping here and there to meet the real people behind the scenes: vignerons, gardeners, farmers, cellar workers and more. The tour culminates in a private lunch in the château prepared by executive chef Jean-Denis Le Bras, whose CV includes stints around the world with Pierre Gagnaire (of the famed eponymous Michelin three-star establishment in Paris) as well as Sketch in London. The innovative cuisine is complemented with wine pairings from the estate’s sommelier.
Open house
Note that outside the main tourist season (May-September), many châteaux operate limited days and hours, and some stop offering visits – so do your research ahead of time. If you find yourself in Margaux in early spring, consider the Médoc’s Portes Ouvertes event. Dates vary annually, but during this open weekend, many estates offer free tours and tastings without appointments. Expect big crowds and a lot of hustle-and-bustle – intimate and quiet it is not, but it’s a great way of quickly taking in a selection of Margaux’s estates without the need for much forward planning and at a relatively low cost. Some estates offer food for sale, or schedule concerts or other ticketed events to coincide with the day itself.
My perfect weekend in Margaux
Friday
If you’re staying locally, drop your bags off and start with Château Marquis d’Alesme for a private guided visit and tasting (€70 per person), followed by lunch at La Table de Nathalie. Or for something different, have lunch with the estate workers at Château Palmer.
After lunch, explore Margaux village on foot. Browse the extensive wine selection at La Cave d’Ulysse or the Maison du Vin de Margaux. If you have a sweet tooth, Mademoiselle de Margaux, opposite, makes wine-inspired chocolates. Finish with a tour and dinner at Château Marquis du Terme.
Saturday
Rent a bike and spend the morning cycling. Of the various routes suggested by Margaux Tourism, ‘La Boucle des châteaux de Margaux’, rated ‘easy’ at 5km-8.5km, takes in some of the appellation’s most impressive estates. Next, head for a wine-blending workshop (from €60) and private lunch at Château Dauzac.
Spend a lazy afternoon at the spa at the Relais de Margaux, then head to Château Giscours to explore its 35ha forest and park. Follow that with a tour and tasting and a private dinner at La Table de Giscours.
Sunday
Even at the height of the tourist season Sundays are quiet, and most wineries are closed. Head into Bordeaux city for a late-morning feast of oysters and white wine at Le Marché des Capucins market, off Cours de la Marne. If the weather is good, Lacanau and its beaches are less than an hour’s drive away, heading due west to the coast via the D207 or D6.
Credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd
Your Margaux address book
Accommodation
Château Dauzac
Having carried out major renovations, Château Dauzac now offers a selection of seriously smart accommodation. Choose between the five large rooms in the attractive Chartreuse or opt for the privacy of the Boulangerie – once a working bakery, with an old oven still as its centrepiece.
Château Giscours
You’ll find a choice of three guest rooms in the renovated stables next to the château. Tours, tastings and fine dining are all available on-site. For those staying at the guest house, a limited number of bikes are available free of charge. It’s a short walk to the park, where you can walk or cycle amid a thriving ecosystem including sequoia trees, geese, turtles, coypus and more.
Le Relais de Margaux
Situated on the banks of the Gironde, this luxury hotel offers a spa, a golf course, tennis courts and more. With an on-site brasserie and bar, this is a smart choice if you don’t fancy wandering too far afield.
Restaurants
Au Marquis de Terme
Château Marquis de Terme is conveniently situated just at the southern edge of Margaux village. Executive chef Grégory Coutanceau opened the estate’s gastronomic restaurant in 2021. The extensive wine list has some 600 references from which to choose.
Château Palmer
As well as the private lunch by chef Jean-Denis Le Bras if you’re really pushing the boat out with the new Promenade tour, there’s also the Cantine Vigneronne, where estate workers take their lunch. It’s now open to the public for a limited number of covers daily, Monday to Friday, service 12.15-2pm only, €24 per person. Enquire directly with the château well ahead of your visit via the contact details on the website.
Le Lion d’Or, Arcins
Little short of a Médocain institution, just north of Soussans. Expect seasonal and local specialities, with lots of beef, lamb and game alongside oysters and fish. It’s a regular haunt of château-owners and directors, many of whom have a personal store of wine bottles in cupboards along the wall.
