After honing his skill in several revered institutions, including Thomas Keller’s Per Se, in 2011, Carlton joined The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado, working his way up to wine director and overseeing the hotel’s 20,000-bottle wine cellar. He became president and CEO of Heitz Cellar in 2018. Today, he’s the CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, a portfolio that includes Heitz and Haynes Vineyard in Napa and Château Lascombes in Bordeaux.
Carlton McCoy profile image credit: Mike Battey/LWE
My first memorable wine experience
It would have been at the Culinary Institute of America. My professor was [author] Steven Kolpan. He taught us about wine through anecdotes and historical events, not technical descriptions. This would forever frame my perception of wine.
My go-to everyday wines
It depends on my mood. Some nights, it’s Champagne… it’s often Champagne. Other nights, I bring home current releases from our wineries to experience with food.
Favourite supermarket buy
If I grab something quickly, it’s often a lighter white wine such as Chablis or Sancerre.
My most embarrassing moment at work
Where do I start? I once accidentally decanted a red Burgundy into a decanter that still held a few ounces of Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, creating the world’s most expensive rosé.
Pet peeve
It always bugged me when guests pulled up apps with scores. As a somm, scores are irrelevant. Somms taste and vet wines from all over the world. The point of a sommelier is to have a dialogue to find the best bottle for you, at a price you’re comfortable with.
My death row food & wine pairing
It would have to be a whole roasted Bresse chicken stuffed with truffles and accompanied by pommes frites cooked in duck fat, with great mustard. To drink with it: 1929 DRC Les Gaudichots [Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru], by far the most ethereal wine I’ve ever had. And it would take them a long time to find the bottle, which would extend my life!
Best food and wine match
I had an experience at Maison Pic [in Valence, France] many years ago. I have not been a fan of Rhône white wines, but this is their region and they had a great selection. I voiced my concern to the sommelier, and he smirked as if to say, ‘I’ve got this.’ He went on to pour me a Chave Hermitage Blanc with whipped brie scented with fresh vanilla. Insanity! Lesson learned.
My fallback easy after-work pairing
Our go-to quick meal is roasted chicken with a ton of butter and herbs, and a great salad. I can put the chicken in the oven, have a shower and a glass of wine and the chicken is ready. To drink with it, it’s often Champagne, as we always have a bottle in the fridge. If I am in the mood for red wine, we select a young, fresh red that doesn’t need time to show itself – a cru Beaujolais, Frappato or young red Burgundy.
Wine I’m most proud of on my list
When I managed the wine list at The Little Nell, I was blessed to be able to buy whatever I wanted. I was most proud of my domestic Cabernet list. I had amassed an insane collection of old wines that really shone a light on the ageworthy nature of the more balanced style.
The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests
Guests were always amazed by the wines of the northern Rhône. In the US, many guests know Syrah through their experience with Aussie Shiraz, which is the polar opposite of northern Rhône reds. Everyone loves good Syrah when they get it in their glass.
Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list
I don’t buy culty European wines when dining out. At this point, they are marked up the most, as allocations are small and, understandably, demand is high.
Wine I’m most excited about now
I have been drinking a lot more Bordeaux lately. I lean more towards the Right Bank these days: with a few years of age, the wines are ready to drink.
Wine style I really don’t enjoy drinking
I hate to say this, but I don’t enjoy hedonistic red wines: whether they come from Australia, the US or Spain, I just don’t find pleasure in them, and they don’t pair with food. Perhaps with a cigar?
Best value for money right now
I feel strongly that Bordeaux is the winner here. The quality of wine that you can get for $10 and under is unparalleled. And these are wines that can also be cellared. That’s rare to find in today’s wine world.
My favourite wine region to visit
Beyond Napa, where I currently work, I would have to say Austria. I adore great Grüner Veltliner, and the regions themselves are gorgeous.
