Top 40 Piedmont reds beyond Nebbiolo

It was once estimated that half the plantings in Piedmont were of Barbera, and I dare say it’s still true today. It’s a workhouse variety, but in the best sense. Its lively acidity makes it a suitable match for many Piedmontese dishes, and along with Dolcetto, it is the region’s house wine. [subscriber-content]So it wasn’t really surprising that Barbera dominated this tasting. It’s planted throughout the region, and plays a part in many blends. Moreover, some decades ago certain producers found it responded well to then-fashionable barrique-ageing as well as traditional ageing in large casks. There’s considerable controversy about this oaked style, but it remains popular, and when the oak is well handled, it can produce a complex and satisfying wine. Scroll down for Stephen Brook's top 40 Piedmont reds outside Nebbiolo There is also debate about whether Barbera d’Alba is a more successful wine than Barbera d’Asti. In the Alba zone the prime sites are reserved for Nebbiolo vines, so Barbera may not be planted in ideal locations, though assumptions about perfect locations are now being revised as a consequence of global warming. In Asti, in contrast, Barbera is king, grown in prime sites. In practice, both regions make outstanding Barbera. There is also a ‘Superiore’ category which requires wood-ageing and minimum alcohol levels, but these are easily attained by Barbera anyway, so it seems to serve little purpose. In practice it tends to be reserved for more traditional styles – but not necessarily! The problem in this tasting was not so much stylistic – no dogma need be applied to Barbera – as balance. Many recent vintages have been exceedingly hot, leading to overripe fruit and very high alcohols. Whether this is simply a consequence of torrid summers or it’s in part a conscious decision to make this style is open to question. The new Nizza DOCG (from 2014) is a super-charged Barbera d’Asti, cropped at lower yields and aged longer. Some wines are effortful but the best are excellent. There was a good selection of Dolcetto wines too. Not surprisingly the Dogliani DOCG showed well. This really is the sweet-spot for Dolcetto and many excellent growers farm its 600ha. Dolcetto d’Alba was also successful, but there was less excitement – and few offerings – from the Diano d’Alba DOCG, which hopes to rival Dogliani in quality. Like Barbera, Dolcetto can be made in so many different styles: light and simple, denser and more structured, and even oak-aged. The middle path usually works best. Piedmont is home to some eccentric grapes too. Freisa used to be a frizzante , but today it’s taken more seriously, and although its profile is elusive, there are some good wines with floral aromas and punchy fruit. Grignolino and Ruchè, both ethereally red-fruited though often high in alcohol, are an acquired taste, but can display fragrance and charm. It’s hard to say the same for Albarossa, a 1938 crossing of Barbera and the obscure French variety Chatus. Some top estates have planted it, but its dark, tannic chewiness is hard to love. Surprisingly, there were very few wines in this tasting from the Colline Novaresi in northeast Piedmont. It’s a cluster of small appellations like Ghemme, Gattinara and Boca, but the best wines – usually a blend of Nebbiolo with Croatina and/or Vespolina – are delicious. Moreover, outsiders such as Paolo de Marchi from Chianti and Roberto Conterno from Monforte, Barolo, have bought properties here, so it is decidedly fashionable. It would have been good to have had the opportunity to assess more wines from here. Nonetheless the tasting demonstrated the diversity of grape varieties and styles encountered these days in Piedmont, and the white wines – Arneis, Nascetta, Timorasso for a start – are becoming exciting too. Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is our DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont. [/subscriber-content] See Stephen Brook's top 40 Piedmont reds outside Nebbiolo [wine-collection] You may also like Barolo 2010 Vintage Guide Best Piedmont wines: Latest-release Barolo & Barbaresco Barolo: Entering a new era, plus 12 of the best worth seeking out Reimagining Barbera Top Barolo 2008 wines: Panel tasting results

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Top 40 Piedmont reds beyond Nebbiolo

See Stephen Brook’s top 40 Piedmont reds outside Nebbiolo

You may also like

Barolo 2010 Vintage Guide
Best Piedmont wines: Latest-release Barolo & Barbaresco
Barolo: Entering a new era, plus 12 of the best worth seeking out
Reimagining Barbera
Top Barolo 2008 wines: Panel tasting results

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