Margaret River 2023 Chardonnay: Is this the greatest Margaret River Chardonnay vintage yet?

[subscriber-content] [breakout]

Margaret River 2023 Chardonnay vintage rating: 5+/5 A ‘perfect’ year for Chardonnay, unanimously considered to be one of the greatest vintages of the past decade.

[/breakout]

Chardonnay 2023 If 2022 was a great year for Margaret River Chardonnay , then 2023 proved to be exceptional, thanks to consistent quality across the board. Wineries that craft reliably excellent wines continued to do so, while ‘solid’ producers were gifted brilliant conditions to elevate their wines. From a total of 73 wines submitted for tasting, an astonishingly high proportion achieved gold medal level (95-points in Decanter terms) or higher. And while we can only publish a selection of them here, it’s worth noting that few entries were lower than a silver (90-94pts). I don’t consider myself a generous scorer, but I’ve given these wines multiple passes and found them expressive, powerful, textural and complex, with persistence and an excellent line of fruit. Looking for nuance Undoubtedly, the 2023 Chardonnays are some of the Margaret River region’s best yet – and it’s a vibrant vintage in its youth. I’ve tasted some of these previously, and they’ve unfurled further with just a few more months in bottle. While many possess fruit sweetness, delicacy and power, in tasting them I was particularly on the lookout for nuance. Chardonnay is often referred to as a ‘winemaker’s grape’ for good reason, so a diversity of style is justified, as long as there is respect for the fruit, a sense of place in the wine, balance, harmony and clarity. Margaret River doesn’t struggle for acidity (especially when the Gingin clone is concerned), and philosophies vary on malolactic fermentation, oak regimes and the use of solids in the winemaking process. Regardless of philosophy, the techniques and choices in the winery should enhance rather than distract, and integrate to complete the wine’s story. The greatest iterations have an unbreakable harmony and seamlessness to them. [breakout]

Decanter vintage ratings – Margaret River Chardonnay 2022 5/5: A fantastic year on the warmer side. Effortless, though picking dates proved crucial and yields varied. 2021 4/5: The best wines are outstanding, however there were challenges with rain events and labour shortages due to COVID-19 which didn’t ensure a smooth vintage for all. 2020 5/5: An early, warm, and dry vintage with little disease or pest pressure. Low yields and high quality meant allocations were tight for those in demand. 2019 4/5: A late vintage and little Marri blossom proved challenging for yields, however cooler conditions favoured Chardonnay with intense fruit and acid retention. 2018 4/5: A classic, warm and dry year, providing long hang time. Cabernet Sauvignon really shone this year, but Chardonnay wasn’t far behind. [/breakout] Conditions & comparisons While Margaret River is lucky to enjoy a relatively consistent Mediterranean-type climate, the term ‘dream vintage’ has been used by multiple winemakers for 2023. ‘It’s probably one of the standout vintages of the last 25 years,’ says Larry Cherubino of Cherubino Wines. Growing conditions were near perfect, with even flowering, consistent fruit set and moderate summer temperatures allowing gentle and even ripening. There were no weather events, there was low disease and pest pressure, decent yields, a wet spring and well-timed top-up rains. In comparison to other recent vintages, Cliff Royale of Flametree Wines explains: ‘2022 sits just behind 2023 (see vintage box below) . Not because it wasn’t good, just because 2023 was exceptional.’ ‘We’ve had three great vintages in a row – 2021, 2022, 2023 – ascending in terms of concentration of fruit and balance,’ adds Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines (pictured, below) . ‘2023 had elegance, balance and fruit power, and was great straight away. Whereas 2022 was more reserved.’ ‘2023 was a graceful vintage,’ concludes Phil Hutchison, Leeuwin Estate. ‘I think it showcases this beautiful fruit purity, beautiful aromatics. 'It’s one of those vintages that is going to be talked about a lot more down the track. It will easily be in the top five of the last 20 years, without doubt.’ [caption id="attachment_563882" align="alignnone" width="600"] Vanya Cullen, Cullen Wines[/caption] Looking ahead Margaret River is a wine region that produces two per cent of the nation's total wine production, yet this is almost all premium production. There’s no question that Margaret River is a name that should shine on the international stage. However, let’s remember that premium does not equal heavy. One evolution I would like to see continue is that of lighter bottles on the tasting table. While several wineries have made the jump to lightweight, there is scope for the figure to increase substantially in the coming years. Click here for more reviews of the Margaret River 2023 Chardonnays [/subscriber-content] Margaret River 2023 Chardonnay [wine-collection] Related articles One to watch: Margaret River's Trait Wines Ocean drive: the cool climate wines of Mornington Peninsula ‘I’ve tasted nearly 4,000 wines in my three years at Decanter; this is my first 100-point wine’