Tales of the unexpected: South America's hidden wine jewels

We gathered together a strong contingent of people with detailed expertise and inside knowledge of the South American wine scene, and asked them for their up-to-date tips and on-the-ground advice about the regions, producers, wines and dining spots that deserve more attention for their uniqueness and character. Each of our guest contributors interpreted the request differently, through the lens of their own personal and professional histories, in the end providing us with a fascinating mosaic of places, people and wines. From Michelin-starred venues to remote areas where electricity is a luxury, from award-winning Semillons to sparkling Syrah , the following is a list full of surprises, shaped by authenticity, craftsmanship, laid-back sophistication and colourful elegance. That’s possibly the essence of contemporary South America. See our experts' picks of the hidden jewels of South America [subscriber-content] Alejandro Iglesias [caption id="attachment_566133" align="alignnone" width="600"] Gabriel Williams of Williams Casanegra Distillery[/caption] Vistalba and Las Compuertas, Mendoza Heritage, fine dining & high-altitude single malt Just 30 minutes’ drive south from the centre of Mendoza , the neighbouring GI sub-regions of Vistalba and Las Compuertas are among Argentina’s most storied wine-growing areas. Home to century-old Malbec vines and leafy, rural roads, the zone combines tradition with modern sophistication. In recent years, this historic corner of Luján de Cuyo has gained renewed recognition: old-vine plots here are now fiercely sought after by leading producers and many of Argentina’s top names operate in the area – among them Cheval des Andes, Nieto Senetiner, Durigutti, Matías Riccitelli and Kaiken. Wine tourism is thriving, supported by a number of high-end offerings. Two winery restaurants, recognised by Michelin Guide, stand out: 5 Suelos Cocina de Finca at Durigutti Family Winemakers and Riccitelli Bistró (which has one Michelin star), both offering refined cuisine in vineyard settings. Las Compuertas is also home to the Williams Casanegra Distillery , where Andes Highlands Single Malt Whisky is produced and matured at high elevation in oak casks. With spectacular views of the Andes as a dramatic backdrop, Vistalba and Las Compuertas stand as a unique expression of Mendoza’s heritage, as well as its future. [caption id="attachment_566134" align="alignnone" width="600"] Alejandro Iglesias is an educator and wine writer based in Buenos Aires. He is the founder and wine & spirits editor of vinomanos.com , a regular Decanter contributor and a DWWA judge across South American categories[/caption] Alistair Cooper MW [caption id="attachment_566132" align="alignnone" width="600"] The wine cellar at La Fuente Toscana in Ovalle, in Chile’s Limarí valley[/caption] Chile: La Fuente Toscana Migrant Italian-inspired fine dining in Ovalle The past 10 to 15 years have seen a boom in Chile’s culinary scene, with Santiago unsurprisingly taking centre stage. Yet for me, the most fun and welcoming restaurant outside Santiago is without doubt La Fuente Toscana in Ovalle, some 300km to the capital’s north – a perfect spot from which to discover the stunning regions of Limarí and Elqui. Expect hearty and well-prepared Italian dishes alongside stunning seafood and shellfish from the local coast, which is famous in Chile for its abundance of high-quality produce. The restaurant is the brainchild of the engaging and welcoming Juan José Juliá, a food and wine lover who previously worked in the agricultural sector. While the food alone is worth the visit, La Fuente Toscana also has what I consider to be the best wine list in the whole of Chile – at extremely reasonable prices to boot. When I visited earlier this year, this included international wines such as Gonon St-Joseph for less than £100. [caption id="attachment_357050" align="alignnone" width="600"] Alistair Cooper MW is a widely published wine writer, educator, broadcaster and consultant with a particular focus on South America. He visits several times a year and is the president of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile[/caption] Patricio Tapia [caption id="attachment_566141" align="alignnone" width="600"] The lofty vineyards at Jardín Oculto. Credit: Jardín Oculto[/caption] Los Cintis Valley, Bolivia A whisper from the past To visit Los Cintis Valley is to take a journey back in time. The vineyards look more like forests, the vines tangled in the trees, three metres high, forcing the harvest to be carried out on ladders; the varieties bear strange names: Vischoqueña, Imporeña. In Los Cintis, the only glimmer of technology seems to be the electricity. A hidden corner in the middle of the Andes in the deep south of Bolivia, the valley sits at 2,300m-2,800m above sea level, 700km south of the capital La Paz. The wines produced here are as strange as they are delicious, with unusual flavours that come from an ancient viticulture, a whisper from the distant past. Successful producers beginning to emerge from Bolivia include Jardín Oculto, San Francisco de la Horca, Tierra Roja and Yokich. The wines from Los Cintis represent arguably the most original side of South America’s wine scene today. And, once again, the future is rooted in the past. [caption id="attachment_566136" align="alignnone" width="600"] Patricio Tapia is a widely published writer, author and expert on the wines of South America. His Descorchados guide is published annually, offering articles and regional reports covering Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Peru and Uruguay[/caption] Carla Bertellotti [caption id="attachment_566143" align="alignnone" width="600"] Vinos Masintín winemaker Diego Urra[/caption] Chile’s maverick producers It’s time to spotlight Chile’s small, bold and passionate producers who are digging deep into their origins – honouring the heritage value of historical regions and rediscovering overlooked grape varieties – while swimming against the commercial tide. These winemakers aren’t chasing trends or trying to reinvent Chile, they’re challenging both local and global drinking habits by championing hidden gems such as the old País vineyards of Itata. Long dismissed, País is now proving its worth, yielding wines of elegance and soul. Special praise goes to Vinos Masintín , whose stunning País from a small parcel in coastal Maule Valley is the finest I’ve tasted. Equally inspiring is L’Entremetteuse by Fench expat Laurence Réal in Colchagua Valley – she’s an artisan producer who embraces authenticity, sustainability , fair trade and social responsibility, while allowing grapes the freedom to express themselves. Differing in style, both producers create wines that stir the soul – and, ultimately, that’s what wine should do. [caption id="attachment_566145" align="alignnone" width="600"] Carla Bertellotti is the founder and managing director of UK-based specialist wine merchant Vinos Latinos[/caption] Valeria Gamper [caption id="attachment_566146" align="alignnone" width="600"] Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard Semillon[/caption] Argentina’s world-class Semillons Although Argentina is mostly known for its red wines – especially Malbec – the country’s whites are increasingly exciting. Diversity is one of the country’s greatest strengths; however, there’s one grape that for me deserves special recognition for its history, potential and incredible stock of old vineyards: Semillon. Although widely planted in Argentina in the past, its popularity declined – between 1968 and 2010, the cultivated area dropped steadily by 89.4%, from 5,486ha to the current 578ha, according to Argentina’s national viticulture institute INV. The reasons for this dramatic decline are various, but primarily ‘a period of high-quality wine production in the 1950s and ’60s in Argentina was followed by an economy-driven shift towards high-volume table wine production into the 1970s and ’80s’, as Sebastián Zuccardi, winemaker at Bodega Zuccardi in La Consulta, explains. ‘A low market value for Semillon grapes and the variety’s susceptibility to rot in the vineyard, particularly botrytis , made it a prime candidate for being replaced by hard-pushed growers,’ adds Juanfa Suarez, head of nearby Finca Suarez. Indeed, in the mid-1970s, Facundo Suárez Civit pulled up 80ha of vineyards, including Semillon, to replace them with orchards. ‘The Argentine preference for red wines likely contributed to the drop in Semillon’s popularity,’ says Juanfa. ‘Also, the later internationalisation of Argentinian wine, largely driven by Malbec and Chardonnay , pushed Semillon into the background.’ Renewed interest But, in keeping with global generational shifts in winemaking, a renewed interest in Argentina in heritage vineyards with old vine stock, coupled with a recognition of Semillon’s freshness, character and ageing potential, is proving the catalyst for a revival. Sebastián Zuccardi sees positive signs: ‘When the focus on quality returned, in the 1990s, the country concentrated heavily on red wines. At that point, Semillon ought to have continued its decline. But I’d say that about 15 years ago, we started to look at Semillon in a new way. ‘I’m planting [only] a few hectares myself, but for me, the fact that Semillon’s decline has levelled off indicates that something is happening. 'It has to do with this revolution in white wines in Argentina. We have very old Semillon vines here – I’d even say pre- phylloxera – from massal selection, highly adapted to the place. That represents a great opportunity for Argentina.’ Today there are many exceptional examples to explore, including Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard ( 2022, £16 The Fat Pigeon Wine Company ) from Río Negro in Patagonia, Zuccardi’s Finca Los Membrillos ( 2019, £90 Vintage Cellars ) from Paraje Altamira and Michelini i Mufatto, Certezas ( 2021, £39.95 Corney & Barrow / $37.99 The Cellar d'Or ) from El Peral in Tupungato. But Semillon also often features as part of complex white blends, such as Susana Balbo’s Signature White Blend ( 2022, £19,95 Village Wines ), Finca Suárez, Perico Blanco ( 2022, US$46.99 Houston Wines ) and Luigi Bosca, De Sangre White Blend ( 2022, £19.50 Divine Fine Wines ) – to name just a few. [caption id="attachment_566147" align="alignnone" width="600"] Valeria Gamper is a sommelier and wine educator in Pamplona, northern Spain. Born and raised in Buenos Aires, she won the ASI Best Sommelier of the Americas competition in 2022. She is a DWWA judge across South American categories[/caption] Javier Soto-Miranda [caption id="attachment_566149" align="alignnone" width="600"] The wines of Mujer Andina[/caption] Mujer Andina Wines, Chile The young, family-owned and female-led project Mujer Andina (‘Andean Woman’) never ceases to amaze. Founded in 2012, it continues to earn accolades and win over consumers thanks to precise winemaking and a clear interpretation of Chilean terroir. A member of MOVI, an association of more than 35 small independent wine producers in Chile, Mujer Andina is led by co-founder and winemaker Andrea Jure and reflects her vision, taking inspiration from the fearless Chilean women who live and work in the Andes, with a special focus on environmental protection. The project’s signature is a unique sparkling wine, Grand Levita Nature Rosé, made entirely from organically farmed Syrah grown in the Maipo valley. A bright rosé, it shows pronounced minerality with subtle aromas of red berry and cherry fruits, and a floral nuance, with hints of toasted bread and brioche thanks to its ageing in French barrels. Mujer Andina also produces still wines – including El Infaltable, a varietal Carmènere , and Kelüna, a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé – as well as an innovative gluten-free sparkling cocktail based on a zero-dosage sparkling wine, called Livianita de Sangre. [caption id="attachment_566148" align="alignnone" width="600"] Javier Soto-Miranda is Decanter ’s Tastings Manager, working across all of its panel tastings and the Decanter World Wine Awards. Born and raised in Santiago de Chile, he was previously a business lawyer and also worked in management in the luxury sector[/caption] Dirceu Vianna Junior MW [caption id="attachment_566151" align="alignnone" width="600"] Cave Geisse's vineyards in the region of Pinto Bandeira. Credit: Cave Geisse[/caption] Brazil’s flourishing wine scene Ambition, modern technology and substantial investments are the catalysts for a multitude of new vineyards and wineries appearing all over Brazil . The country’s large landmass offers a huge combination of soils and microclimates that enable many grape varieties to flourish. The border country between Minas Gerais and São Paulo states, to the north of São Paulo city, is an area of rolling hills and higher elevations of about 900m and up to 1,000m in parts. With vineyards on both sides of the border, such as the area around the town of Espírito Santo do Pinhal on the São Paulo side, it’s possible to find world-class wines here. By double pruning (that is, pruning once in winter, once in summer – a technique favoured to manipulate the vine’s growth cycle in southern Brazil’s sub-tropical climate), grapes are forced to reach maturity during winter (June to August), when there is less rainfall and cooler temperatures, achieving perfect ripeness, especially in vineyards planted with Syrah. Rio Grande do Sul, the southernmost state in Brazil, bordering the northern reaches of Argentina and Uruguay, is where most of the nation’s vineyards are located and where a group of key family wineries, including Casa Valduga, Cave Geisse and Pizzato, are responsible for some of the most exciting wines. These are well-established producers in the local market, yet they have stubbornly remained under the radar for most consumers outside Brazil and thoroughly deserve more international attention. [caption id="attachment_566150" align="alignnone" width="600"] Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, educator and consultant through his company Vianna Wine Resources. Based in the UK since 1989, he became the first Brazilian to earn the Master of Wine title in 2008[/caption] Florencia Gómez [caption id="attachment_566152" align="alignnone" width="600"] Credit: Bodega Colomé[/caption] James Turrell Light Museum at Bodega Colomé, Salta A full sensorial experience in Argentina Is it worth dedicating a whole day to a single winery? Absolutely. Established in 2001 by wine-loving Swiss entrepreneur and art collector Donald Hess, Colomé is home to one of the world’s highest vineyards, at 3,111m, and promises a journey like no other. The 115km road from Cafayate – three to four hours of slow, dusty switchbacks – winds through ochre hills dotted with cardón cacti before you reach the winery at 2,300m. The drive itself feels dreamlike. The unexpected highlight is the James Turrell Light Museum, part of the Hess Art Collection – one of the world’s most important private contemporary art collections. US artist Turrell – known for his work exploring the relationship between light and space – regularly wows visitors to installations and exhibitions of his works around the world, yet Colomé is the only place where a dedicated, permanent museum of Turrell’s work sits under one (adobe) roof. Inside, nine immersive pieces sit quietly in the middle of the desert: a vast Skyspace (Turrell’s signature, minimalist architectural spaces, which are designed to frame and interact with the sky), colour‑shifting Ganzfeld rooms (spaces immersed in uniform fields of light that are designed to create sensory confusion), corridors where light seems liquid... Minimalist yet intensely sensorial, they lead you from meditative hush to playful wonder, aligning with Andean blues, pinks and golds. Colomé winemaker Thibaut Delmotte mirrors the art with altitude‑driven wines that are full of character, crowning a full‑sensory adventure you’ll want to share. [caption id="attachment_566154" align="alignnone" width="600"] Florencia Gómez is the founder of wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio and a DWWA judge across South American categories. She studied viticulture and winemaking in Argentina before spending six years making wines there and in the US, Croatia and Burgundy[/caption] Adrianna Catena [caption id="attachment_566153" align="alignnone" width="600"] L’Orange artisanal winery in Chacras de Coria, Mendoza[/caption] L’Orange: a nourishing corner of Mendoza One of my favourite places in Mendoza is L’Orange , a small-scale, artisanal winery run by my brother Ernesto Catena and sister-in-law Joanna Foster. Located about half an hour south of Mendoza city centre by car, in Chacras de Coria district, it’s a serene, magical place – a secret garden with an orchard, small nursery, informal restaurant, winery and micro-batch ‘kombucheria’, where locally sourced yerba mate and green tea are used to produce a naturally fermented ‘ pét-nat tea’ that completes its fermentation to less than 1% alcohol in the bottle. The connecting thread is a philosophy that Jo likes to summarise as: living soils, living food, living drink (whether it be natural wine or kombucha). The wines are produced using a variety of amphorae from France, Italy, Spain and Georgia, and the grapes sourced mostly from Ernesto and Joanna’s organic and biodynamic Demetercertified farm and vineyard in Vista Flores, a little further south, with other certified organic grapes from other producers. Vinification is all natural without any adjustments, additions, filtering or fining. Similarly, the food is either farm-to-table or locally sourced, always with an emphasis on agroecology. Everything is precisely nurtured, and a long lunch at L’Orange has a way of restoring both body and soul. [caption id="attachment_566155" align="alignnone" width="600"] Adrianna Catena is a joint-venture partner in Mendoza producer El Enemigo with Catena Zapata winemaking director Alejandro Vigil. The youngest daughter of winemaker Nicolás Catena Zapata, Adrianna holds a PhD in history from Oxford University[/caption] Paz Levinson [caption id="attachment_566156" align="alignnone" width="600"] Barrel sampling in the Michelini winery[/caption] Farm-to-table dining and high-altitude Cabernet Franc in Mendoza If you’re visiting Mendoza, Sitio La Estocada , the family project of husband-and-wife team Matías Michelini and Cecilia Alvarez (now with second generation Paula, Stefano, Martina and Josefina already on board) is a mandatory stop. The estate follows biodynamic practices and a holistic approach to farming, winemaking and hospitality. The on-site restaurant, led by chef Enzo González and sommelier Daniela Ovejero Michelini, is one of the best places to dine in the Uco Valley. The attention to detail, the fresh produce grown on site and the impeccable service all make it a memorable and authentic experience. And while in Argentina, make sure you explore the outstanding Cabernet Francs the country is producing. A good, unexpected place to start is Quebrada de Humahuaca, in the Jujuy province of northern Argentina. A recent standout was Bodega Kindgard’s Copleras 2022 varietal bottling. Produced from vines planted at about 2,200m, this is a wine full of aromatic intensity, with elegant floral and balsamic notes, and hints of pencil shavings and cedar box. A very characterful wine, made with clear intention and focus. [caption id="attachment_566157" align="alignnone" width="600"] Paz Levinson is head executive sommelier of France-based restaurant enterprise Pic Group. The DWWA Regional Chair for the Argentina & rest of South America category, she is also co-founder of wine events company Argentina Reloaded, and in 2015, she won the ASI & APAS Best Sommelier of the Americas[/caption] [/subscriber-content] Related articles Talent for adventure: South American winemakers abroad South American premium white: Panel tasting results Criolla: 15 great buys from South America’s trailblazing family of grapes

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