Isa spent more than 12 years as head sommelier at the Fat Duck Group, working alongside chef Jonny Lake. In 2019, he and Jonny teamed up to open Trivet (now two Michelin starred), and they have just launched Labombe by Trivet at the COMO Metropolitan London. In 2022, Isa was awarded the Michelin Sommelier Award for his work at Trivet.
My first memorable wine experience
Oddly, it was probably the best wine that I have drunk and will ever drink: a 1969 Chambertin from Burgundy’s legendary Armand Rousseau, back in 2002 or 2003. It was an out-of-this-world experience and one I would never want to try to repeat, just in case I was disappointed. I had bought the bottle for £50 with an ullage that was well below the neck. I drank it with friends at the Arches wine bar in London, along with some other great bottles.
My go-to everyday wines
I am a big fan of white wines from Campania, Italy, in particular Greco di Tufo. I love the freshness and purity; it’s amazing with light Mediterranean food.
My favourite supermarket buy
I have not been to a supermarket over the past few years for anything. I buy from independent shops. I also believe supermarkets should not be able to sell wine, but that is a long debate.
My most embarrassing moment at work
I once decanted a bottle of Tignanello into a decanter and as I approached the table to serve it, the handle of the decanter broke and the decanter fell on the floor. I was left there holding a handle and standing in a pool of red wine.
Pet hate
The obsession of wine professionals with a single grape variety at the expense of everything else. There are some wine professionals who only ever seem to drink and recommend Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc or Riesling. The wine world has so much to offer – it would be a sad day if it was one day reduced to just a handful of grape varieties or regions.
My death row food and wine pairing
I think that, being from Turkey, it may actually be something other than wine, such as a glass of raki with a plate of lakerda – a salt-cured dish made from bonito.
Best food and wine match at my restaurant
The pigeon with persimmon dish at Trivet is simply amazing with northern Rhône-style red wines. The spices in the dish and the black fruits and black pepper notes in the wine are a wonderful combination.
My fallback quick after-work meal (and wine match)
I used to really enjoy making sage and butter pasta and drinking it with Chianti. Now I try not to eat or drink after work! It’s not easy though.
Best buy on my list right now
On Monday evenings we do a selection of very keenly priced wines at Trivet that changes weekly and these offer incredible value for wine lovers.
The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests
Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Champs Perdrix (on the list at £120). It’s an amazing quality for the cost, where Burgundy prices are going silly. This remains amazingly approachable.
Wines I would avoid ordering on a restaurant list
I don’t like to order wines that are too generic and made in enormous quantities. I drink for pleasure and also look for some kind of cultural interest. Wines with a human story excite me more.
Wine region/style I’m most excited about at the moment
I am very excited about the wines from countries such as Greece, Turkey, Georgia and Armenia. They have so much to offer, and it’s only just beginning – although technically it began thousands of years ago, of course!
Wine style/grape that I don’t really enjoy drinking
I don’t tend to enjoy mass-produced wines, just as I don’t enjoy mass tourism. I think that they are both damaging and prefer to stay away.
Wine region/style that offers the greatest value for money right now
There is a lot to be said about value versus price, and it is very subjective. There are many regions offering incredibly good value – among these I think Spain has to be top of the list. You can find excellent value in pretty much any region in Spain.
My favourite wine region to visit – and favourite destination while I’m there
I love visiting Italy – any region, at any time of year is always a delightful experience. When I find myself in Piedmont, I love visiting La Ciau del Tornavento – a wonderful restaurant that has a fabulous wine list.
