Northern Rhône 2015: Panel tasting results

Matt Walls, Gearoid Devaney MS and Fiona Hayes tasted 46 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 26 Highly recommended Northern Rhône: Panel tasting scores 46 wines tasted Exceptional 0 Outstanding 9 Highly recommended 26 Recommended 9 Commended 2 Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2015-vintage red wines from any northern Rhône appellation Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our northern Rhône panel tasting [subscriber-content] Poised and raring to go [caption id="attachment_568808" align="alignnone" width="630"] Stéphane Montez. Credit: Norbert Lacroix Photographe[/caption] It’s an easy sequence to remember: ’05 , ’10 , ’15 , ’20 . All were great vintages in the northern Rhône , but some – particularly 2005 and 2010 – have been agonisingly slow to mature. This enjoyable tasting of nearly 50 wines from 2015 showed that the vintage deserves the hype that it received on release. What’s more, most of them are opening up and drinking well already. The preceding winter was rainy, topping up the water table. Spring was damp, too, and warm; the season got off to an early start. All of that water proved crucial, as 2015 turned out to be the hottest year on record after 2003. Yields were generous and the grapes were in perfect condition at harvest. Despite the summer heat, the style of 2015 can be described as remarkably classic. Fiona Hayes said: ‘I was expecting a warmer profile, but overall they were very well balanced… with a lot of freshness.’ Appellation analysis [caption id="attachment_568811" align="alignnone" width="630"] Michel Chapoutier in the Le Méal vineyard[/caption] The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage flight was remarkably strong. ‘You often think that Crozes-Hermitage doesn’t age well, but this showed that it does,’ said Hayes. At 10 years of age, none were over the hill. Even better were the St-Josephs, which yielded three Outstanding wines. ‘A really strong flight overall,’ according to Gearoid Devaney MS. ‘Some really good expressions of Syrah – freshness, elegance and good balance.’ The Côte-Rôtie flight, though impressive, was more mixed in style; when the oak was in balance, there were some thrilling wines to enjoy. While the 2015 Côte-Rôties are largely ready now, the best Hermitage wines need a little longer – but the quality there is even higher. Certain styles proved divisive. More delicate wines, such as Domaine Belle’s Hermitage and Pierre-Jean Villa’s Côte-Rôtie Fongeant, were scored at 95 or 96 points by one or two judges but not all. Most contentious was Jean-Michel Stéphan’s atypical, carbonic-maceration Côte-Rôtie So’Brune, which was both adored and not-so adored. Overall, with an impressive nine Outstanding from 46 wines, this tasting proved that 2015 is a vintage that has lived up to its potential – and is now just beginning to deliver on its promise. [breakout]

What to eat with northern Rhône Syrah, by Fiona Beckett [caption id="attachment_568812" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Flavoursome sausages pair particularly well with a mature Crozes-Hermitage. Credit: Oksana Mizina/Shutterstock[/caption] With most Rhône wines in restaurants coming from recent vintages, it’s most likely that you’re going to be drinking any older vintages at home.

But what should you pair them with? It depends of course on the appellation.

There’s a considerable difference pricewise between a Crozes-Hermitage and a Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie, which will no doubt make you think you ought to up your game with the latter pair, although there’s an attractive rusticity to mature Crozes that will satisfy any yearning for hearty grills and stews or good, meaty sausages.

With the finer wines you’re more likely to be looking at a roast – maybe salt-aged beef or a roasting joint from a herd of older cattle, mutton rather than lamb, or a haunch of venison.

Game, of course, is excellent with mature northern Rhône wines. Pheasant or grouse, maybe, rather than more delicate partridge – or a rich game pie.

A cheeseboard, too. Older wines are more mellow and less angular than younger ones, so they’re more accommodating when it comes to pungent, strongly flavoured cheeses.

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See all notes and scores from the northern Rhône panel tasting [/subscriber-content] The judges Matt Walls is a Contributing Editor to Decanter and the DWWA Regional Chair for Rhône. His latest book, The Smart Traveller’s Wine Guide to the Rhône Valley , is available now from Académie du Vin Library, priced at £12.99 Gearoid Devaney MS is an awarded sommelier, a director at London-based merchant Flint Wines and co-founder of restaurant Cabotte in the City. He has also worked at Michelin three-star Pierre Gagnaire in Paris and became a Master Sommelier in 2009 Fiona Hayes is a buyer at The Wine Society, responsible for categories including Rhône. She has worked at Fields Morris & Verdin and Berry Bros & Rudd, and was a buyer for European wines at Lay & Wheeler until early 2024 Northern Rhône panel tasting results: Wines were tasted blind [wine-collection] Related articles Eight top Rhône wines to buy in the supermarket Matt Walls picks the 12 best Cornas wines to open now or save for later Walls’ hidden gems: Domaine Verzier, a new future for the northern Rhône