No D.O. – The Spanish wines pushing the boundaries of tradition

When we take our first steps in wine study, we learn about famous appellations, permitted grape varieties and myriad regulations – often strange, at least to the newcomer. This is how I started to piece together the ‘official’ version of the wine world. Was it the same for you? But right now, many producers in Spain are operating outside the rules governed by their denominación de origen (DO) – the Spanish equivalent of appellation. Some of their wines are among the best in Spain and are either classified within a PGI (protected geographical indication) – a defined wider area that has less demanding specifications – or as Vino de España or Vino Varietal, broad classifications largely unburdened by geographical limitations or production-method stipulations. There are many reasons for producers to classify their wines in less restrictive categories, and we will examine several of these. [subscriber-content]First, it is important to explain that this is not an anti-DO rant! The problems and advantages of DOs vary from region to region, some being relatively free from issues, but others seemingly inflicting a great deal of self-harm as a result of politics, intransigence or both. Spain’s DO system does a lot of work on behalf of its producers to protect viticultural regions and promote them throughout the world. On the other hand, many producers face roadblocks that stem from DO regulations which have, in many cases, failed to adapt to the challenges and ambitions of producers. And then there are producers who are simply forced by geography or style to think outside the box, or rather in this case, outside DO borders. The Spanish market [caption id="attachment_568921" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Bodegas Verum[/caption] In the Spanish domestic market, most consumers favour wines from DOs. In a 2024 report ( Consumo alimentario en España: Informe annual del consumo alimentario en España 2024) by MAPA, the country’s ministry of agriculture, fishing and food, it was noted that DO wines made up 50.8% of the volume of wine consumed within Spain, but an even bigger 73.8% of the total value of wine sales. In contrast, wines with neither a DO nor PGI classification (ie, Vino de España) constituted only 41.9% of the volume sold and even less in value, at 20%. And wines classified in the PGI category only attracted 7% of the volume of wine sales, and a miserly 5.5% of value. Traditionally, in the Spanish market, PGI and Vino de España classifications have been seen as inferior. This has been replicated internationally, with those wines making up the cheaper, value propositions in major retail. There has been a perception that DO wines must be better quality because of stricter viticultural requirements, while wines made outside DO regulations have often come from higher-yielding, poorer-quality vines. Free spirits [caption id="attachment_568922" align="alignnone" width="880"] Annabelle Borra[/caption] A new generation of winemakers is changing that image. Elías López Montero, owner and winemaker at Bodegas Verum in Tomelloso, 150km southeast of Madrid, has been committed to experimentation since starting his project in 2005. Rather than the wines being classified within the DO Castilla-La Mancha, they are certified within the broader PGI of Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. ‘We wanted more freedom to play with different grapes, winemaking methods and ageing options. We wanted to be creative and take risks,’ López explains. ‘We are representing Castilla-La Mancha in our own way.’ Another young winemaker, Annabelle Borra (pictured above), released her first vintage from Vinos de Bellite in 2022 from vineyards close to Olite in Navarra. ‘We’re outside the DO because our wines are made in such a contrasting style to what’s typical in DO Navarra, especially with our biodynamic approach, whole-cluster fermentations and lower alcohol,’ Borra explains. She believes that being outside the DO gives her the freedom to follow her own path. But is there a downside? ‘It also definitely means losing the benefits of a DO, like organised tastings and trips.’ Also in Navarra, Aseginolaza y Leunda is a small project that started selling with the 2017 vintage, of which there were only 2,400 bottles. ‘We have never been inside the DO, so we don’t know how it functions and cannot criticise it,’ is how owners Jon Aseginolaza and Pedro Leunda put it. But they don’t subscribe to the regulations that classify wines according to the ageing process in the winery: a stipulation often imposed by the legal frameworks of DOs. ‘Our way of understanding our wines is based on the terroir and the landscape (parcels, lieux-dits, towns and regions),’ they explain. Old regulations – new styles [caption id="attachment_568923" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Sorting fresh-picked fruit at Bodegas Frontonio in Aragón.[/caption] Some producers simply have no choice. Owner of Bodegas Luis Pérez in Jerez, Willy Pérez (lead image), makes outstanding unfortified wine or Vino de Pasto. The grapes come from some of the best vineyard sites in Jerez, but there is no allowance for unfortified wines within the DO regulations – for now. A movement to incorporate these wines into the DO is gathering momentum, however. In Galicia, northwest Spain, Fedellos do Couto’s thrilling red Bastarda (made from Merenzao, also known as Bastardo in Portugal and Trousseau in Jura, eastern France) is now made from grapes from both sides of the Bibei river. Winemaker Carlos (‘Curro’) Bareño Quintana names it ‘ un vino criollo ’ (a creole wine) with roots (literally!) in both Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra. Previously this wine was produced from grapes wholly within the region of Ribeira Sacra but was still classified outside the DO. However, Bareño is now optimistic about the role of the DO. ‘It has made real progress in terms of the regulations and is taking positive decisions,’ he reflects. Does he think there are still more changes needed? ‘They should promote the old varieties, but I think they have already made a lot of progress with this. Also, they should only certify the wines according to the origin of the grape, not the quality,’ he adds. ‘They should not classify by organoleptic characteristics, nor on the basis of typicity, as these are subjective evaluations.’ Down in the Mediterranean southeast, Jorge Piernas (pictured) is a young grower and winemaker with vineyards in the Murcia sub-region of Bullas, where he classifies his wines outside the DO. He has concerns about the established interests and outdated ways of thinking within the consejo regulador, but feels things can change organically as a younger generation becomes more involved. What impact would this have on the winemaking practices of the region? ‘In our case, Monastrell above Merlot or Tempranillo,’ says Piernas. ‘Bushtrained vines instead of trellised, organic rather than conventional. Once you have this under control, let each person evolve the way they think they should.’ Consumer acceptance [caption id="attachment_568924" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Enric Soler, former sommelier and now winemaker in Penedès[/caption] As Piernas explains, marketing the wines to reach new consumers can be difficult without DO backing. ‘By being outside the DO you miss out on articles, presentations, visits from importer groups and official events,’ he concedes. ‘All of that takes away a lot of visibility, so there are very few positive aspects.’ However, when those wines reach the end consumer, it seems the reception is very positive. Edwina Watson, senior wine buyer at London retailer Fortnum & Mason, has recently made changes to its range. ‘We’re now moving beyond a selection once dominated by Rioja and Ribera del Duero to champion a broad spectrum of Spanish wines – wines with personality, irrespective of origin,’ she says. A new addition to the Fortnum & Mason own- label range, an old-vine Garnacha produced by Bodegas Frontonio (near Zaragoza, Aragón) and classified as a varietal wine (£19.50), has become a customer favourite. ‘While appellations still matter, in Spain there’s a refreshing freedom for customers to look beyond a DO label, focusing instead on what’s in the bottle and who has made it,’ Watson adds. These wines produced outside a DO may not carry a specified geographic origin on the label, but the best examples still communicate a clear sense of place with freedom and authenticity. The only problem? There are now so many excellent wines to try! The 18 picks that follow are just some examples of the excellent non-DO wines that can be found… [/subscriber-content] 18 top-notch non-DO wines from around Spain [wine-collection] Related articles Meet five maverick winemakers in Ribera del Duero Collector's Guide: Spain What the locals are drinking in Rioja

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