Taste like a novice
Leader: Amy Wislocki, Magazine Editor
I love Beth Willard’s analogy for the Viura grape variety (known as Macabeo/Macabeu outside Rioja) in her panel tasting introduction. She compares the grape to a Scandi noir TV series, revealing little to start with but capable of delivering a killer punch with time and patience. Our judges tasted 86 wines made predominantly (at least 85%) from the grape, rating four of them Outstanding and 31 Highly recommended. The tasting notes reveal a kaleidoscope of styles, with descriptors that made me look anew at a variety that I had always dismissed as rather dull. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve encountered some stunning aged white Riojas (which are usually Viura-dominant), but the interest seemed to come from the oak influence and nutty evolution of the wine. I was taught years ago that Viura/Macabeo was a neutral, ‘workhorse’ grape, so I’ve inevitably been burdened with those preconceptions. I never want to stop learning about wine, but the most valuable revelations often occur when you approach the wine in your glass with an open mind, unshackled by what can be unhelpful, lazy generalisations.
In my glass this month
At a small party in January to celebrate my 25-year anniversary at Decanter, the conversation and the fizz were flowing freely. Among other bottles lined up, the delicious Pierro Chardonnay 2023 (£47-£53 Hic, Jeroboams) was outstanding. Wine always tastes better enjoyed with friends – especially friends in wine! – but this Margaret River classic would shine in any settting: cool-climate class, lemon curd on toast, drinking beautifully.
See what’s inside Decanter magazine February 2026
In focus
- Next door neighbours Beth Willard introduces four wine regions in Spain that abutt more famous areas. Explore something familiar yet different
- 20 top buys… Rías Baixas Amaya Cervera picks 17 cracking Albariños, plus a few offbeat surprises
- A life under flor Montserrat Molina, the fascinating and talented pharmacist turned winemaker at Barbardillo in Jerez, speaks to Beth Willard
- One to watch: Bodega Tamerán Darren Smith on the new Gran Canaria estate with footballing connections
- Vintage preview: Rhône 2024 Matt Walls’s curated highlights from his comprehensive tastings in the region
- Regional profile: Yamanashi Sylvia Wu visits Japan’s pre-eminent region for wines made from Koshu
- Head-to-head Where to find North America’s quintessential cool-climate Pinot Noir? Clive Pursehouse and Ana Carolina Quintela argue the toss
Spirits
- Distilled Spirits news & cocktails
- Chartreuse by Charles Curtis MW
Food & travel
- Water & wine Lisa Cardelli on how water influences your wine experience
- Travel: Fuertaventura Darren Smith suggests a wine holiday in the sun
Learning
- Books etc Sophie Thorpe trawls YouTube for the best wine content (so you don’t have to)
- Wine wisdom Expert advice to help you on your ongoing wine journey
Buying guide
- Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
- Panel tasting: Priorat 2021 vs 2022 Two stylistically contrasting vintages for the region’s reds; 98 wines tasted
- Panel tasting: Spanish Viura/ Macabeo These food-friendly whites impressed our panel; 86 wines tasted
- Expert’s choice: Navarra Ines Salpico recommends 18 excellent buys from this mountainous region
- Weekday wines Decanter’s tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink now and priced at £30 or less
- Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress
- DWWA 2025 The best of Bordeaux
Collecting & investing
- Marketwatch Auction news and new releases, plus market potential for 2026
Regulars
- Writing this month Meet four of the authors who contributed to this issue
- News The latest from the wine world
- The brief Ideas and inspiration
- Andrew Jefford’s column
- Hugh Johnson’s column
- Guest column Ned Godwin MW on the rise of Syrah in Tasmania
- The Ethical Drinker How direct funding for sustainability practices can help on the ground, by Natalie Earl
- On the rack: Jeanette Winterson The award-winning author opens up
