Which is the best American cool-climate Pinot Noir – Oregon or the Sonoma Coast?

Clive Pursehouse speaks for the Willamette Valley in Oregon As cool-climate Pinot Noir regions go, I think the Willamette Valley in Oregon is without peer in the United States. I love the wines of the West Sonoma Coast, with their freshness and lift, but the classical elegance of the Willamette, marked by its unmistakable forest floor character and sweet, fresh red fruit, swings it for me. The Willamette Valley has become a New World answer for lovers of classic Burgundy . [subscriber-content]The biggest stigma that the Willamette Valley faces is that it’s not in California . As more than 80% of the country’s wine comes from the Golden State, people often have a hard time imagining American fine wine coming from anywhere else. While Burgundy aficionados love the region’s Pinot Noirs, the average American wine consumer is still unaware of the Willamette Valley, considering this well-established region, with more than 700 wineries, a sort of ‘Wild West’ outpost. Despite this, the region that was pioneered in the early 1970s has risen in just 50 years to be recognised as one of the world’s premium Pinot Noir-producing appellations. American upstarts such as Adelsheim, Coury, Lett and Ponzi have been followed there by French names like Drouhin, Jadot and Lafon. Unlike the West Sonoma Coast, which I do love for its beautiful wines, the Willamette isn’t a sub-appellation and has a singular identity, known for crafting elegant Pinot Noirs with fresh fruit and a deep, evocative ‘underbrush’ aspect, all while allowing for 11 nested AVAs within it to offer a diversity of expression. You can’t see the ocean from any of the Willamette Valley’s vineyards – it sits about 65km west as the crow flies – but its maritime influence has a constant impact on the wines of the region. Earthy richness [caption id="attachment_574786" align="alignnone" width="630"] Harvest time at L'Angolo Estate in Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley. Credit: L'Angolo Estate/Willamette Valley Wineries Association[/caption] The cooling power of the Pacific makes the Willamette Valley the exceptional cool-climate region it is. As the temperature rises in the valley during the warm summer months, cold air from the Pacific rushes into the Willamette through a gap in the Coast Range, cooling the region in the late-afternoon heat. The latitude of the Willamette Valley, much farther north than Northern California, also means it has a shorter growing season and lower UV intensity. The signature of Oregon Pinot Noir for me is the rich, Pacific Northwest forest floor, whether it’s turned soils, undergrowth or mushrooms: what the French call sous bois – the deep evergreen forests blanketed with ferns. This provides a sense of depth and umami richness that frames the fleshy, bright berry fruits – be they strawberries, raspberries or riper Oregon blackberries – finishing with a saline character deriving from the region’s temperate Mediterranean and maritime climate, crisp and balanced acidity and often a flinty minerality. Taken together, these elements create an elegance evocative of the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy. However, in my view, the calibre of the wines, particularly for the price, exceeds what’s available in both Burgundy and the West Sonoma Coast. Ana Carolina Quintela speaks for the West Sonoma Coast [caption id="attachment_574788" align="alignnone" width="630"] Fort Ross Vineyard on the West Sonoma Coast. Credit: Fort Ross Vineyard[/caption] American wine is no longer aspirational – let’s agree on this much before anything. Pinot Noir, especially, has been thriving across different regions in the country, comfortably so. Inevitably, at this point. The only interesting question isn’t whether the US can make great Pinot Noir, but where it speaks most compellingly. More often than not, the answer circles back to the same two regions: Oregon’s Willamette Valley and the West Sonoma Coast of California. While these two regions are often grouped together as cool-climate Pinot territory, in practice the resemblance only goes so far. For me, the California coastal wines pull ahead, and the West Sonoma Coast’s biggest trump card is the Pacific ocean. The ocean isn’t just a backdrop. The marine fog layer rolling in and out of the vineyards, spilling through winding roads, isn’t a special effect. The sudden rise in elevation isn’t scenery. The wind isn’t occasional, either. Put it all together and those elements shape the wines that carry that imprint of salinity, etched acidity and a lift that goes beyond freshness. It reads as energy. I’m comfortable calling it power. Not ripeness, not weight, not authoritarian force. I mean the power of carrying a unique identity with confidence and a touch of defiance. A power that doesn’t just sit on top of the wine, but holds it up from underneath. Pinot Noir is, by nature, an elegant grape, but elegance doesn’t have to be polite or appear fragile. On the West Sonoma Coast, Pinot is elegant and unapologetically powerful. A sense of scale Part of what makes the West Sonoma Coast so compelling is also what makes it challenging for consumers to understand. This isn’t a region you cross through casually. Vineyards are few and far between, because the land resists them with its steep ridges, isolated pockets, thick redwood forests and roads that remind you, pretty quickly, of how demanding it is to grow wine there. There is a sense of scale: nature, larger than life, that shows in the glass. I think it’s also fair to say that the Willamette Valley benefits from a built-in point of comparison to Burgundy. Its geographic position (about 45°N latitude, compared to West Sonoma Coast’s 38.3°N) and climate make that parallel feel intuitive, and over time it has helped give the region a clear, legible identity, especially among collectors. The West Sonoma Coast hasn’t had the same luxury. As a younger AVA (American Viticultural Area – it was given TTB approval in May 2022), it has spent years labouring under the generic weight of ‘California Pinot’, or fighting for the visibility it deserves, which says more about how the two regions are framed than about the wines themselves. I do love many of the wines from the Willamette Valley, but its more inland geography does leave it facing greater pressure as warming trends become harder to ignore. And the longer you spend thinking about climate change, the more the coast starts to feel like insurance. If great cool-climate Pinots are the ones that can keep their edge and balance, the appeal of places where the ocean still has a clear say feels obvious. [/subscriber-content] More top US Pinot Noir? For many more recommendations of top-quality Pinot Noirs from around the US, including Oregon and Sonoma, head to Decanter Premium

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