An interview with Château Margaux's Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos

At just 30 years old, Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos stepped into a role that most could only dream of: CEO of a Bordeaux first growth estate – the family-owned, centuries-old Château Margaux no less. It would be easy to assume that he was guaranteed this role, groomed to take over and freely ‘given the keys’, as it were, by his mother Corinne Mentzelopoulos, who was at the helm of the property for 43 years before retiring in 2023. But that’s not how the story goes, and he exhibits no sense of ego or flippancy when it comes to his task. ‘Château Margaux has been part of my life since I can remember,’ Alexis says when we catch up with him, a year on from his promotion. ‘But I wasn’t forced into continuing the family business – if anything it was the opposite.’ [subscriber-content]Growing up, Alexis’ time was divided between Paris and Margaux, accompanying his mother to international wine events from a young age. These early experiences would become foundational, nurturing his connection to both the estate and the people who love to drink its wines. ‘I was just eight years old, attending masterclasses and dinners with my mother, even travelling to China, New York and Korea,’ he recalls. ‘At that age, you don’t understand what a first growth is, but you see how people react to Château Margaux – you feel the excitement.’ These formative years planted in Alexis a love for Margaux and a desire to be part of its story. Yet, his path to CEO wasn’t one of familial obligation but of choice – and determination. ‘My mother never pushed me or my sister into the business [Alexandra joined the company in 2012 and is currently president of the holding company’s supervisory board]. She shared her passion for Margaux, but it was never about us deciding whether we would work there,’ he says. Instead, it was more like, ‘if you want to work for us, then you have to prove that you’re able to and that you’re going to bring something to it’. This challenge simply made Alexis want it even more. Pressure & motivation After earning a Bachelor of Arts in global communications from the American University of Paris, Alexis completed a Master of Science in vineyard and winery management at Bordeaux Sciences Agro to deepen his understanding of winemaking. Alexis’ journey to CEO was sequential yet fast-tracked, marked first by a role as business development director in early 2020 then deputy general manager in charge of strategy and development in 2021, before assuming full leadership last year. ‘Did I deserve it?’ he muses. ‘No, because in three to four years, nobody deserves having this massive responsibility, especially at such a young age. But if, as was the case, my mother wanted to retire and wanted operations to stay in the family, I was the right pick, in collaboration with my sister. Now it has been done, it has brought more stability to the family and to the estate.’ Alexis acknowledges the enormity of his task, and while trying to balance Margaux’s traditional values with a fresh, dynamic outlook, he demonstrates a leadership approach marked by equal measures of humility, enthusiasm and ambition. ‘Every day is different,’ he says. ‘Some days you’re in the cellar tasting, then you’re in the vineyard seeing the pruning, then you’re abroad meeting local importers or in the office looking over the balance sheet or talking to the IT team to see how we can improve bottle authentication and traceability.’ The family business Alexis is in charge of more than 100 full-time staff and travels between the Paris office and Margaux estate every week, as well as flying overseas to meet distributors and collectors. It’s a dizzying schedule and one that doesn’t leave much room for downtime. An understanding long-term girlfriend (who is also interested in wine) helps, and annual winter ski trips and summer holidays to Greece – staying in the house his grandfather built in a country with which he maintains a close connection, given his Greek heritage – plus the odd game of tennis where time allows. Yet his busyness seems to energise him. ‘There’s pressure to perform, but at the same time a lot of motivation,’ he says, adding that while he may lack experience now, when he’s older he may lack the energy and desire. ‘You never get to have it all, but no matter your competence levels, you need to do everything you can to make Margaux succeed almost by any means necessary. ‘Thankfully,’ he continues, ‘I’m surrounded by a great team’, and he speaks with his mother every day. ‘We’re a close family, so it’s not always about work, but my mother led Château Margaux for 43 years. Everything we have is thanks to her. I’m definitely not the type to come in and say, “Okay, thanks, goodbye.” ’ She remains a confidante, but what was her advice when she passed the baton? ‘Be humble towards Margaux.’ This meant not arriving and suddenly changing age-old processes, but equally not resting on his laurels. Keep up with the changing world but understand that ‘you’re at the service of Château Margaux’, rather than the other way around. [caption id="attachment_545917" align="alignnone" width="300"] Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos and Alexandra Petit-Mentzelopoulos[/caption] Positive outlook It’s this guiding principle of respect for Château Margaux’s history and identity that seems so deeply ingrained. And it’s when Alexis talks about the estate – be it addressing contemporary difficulties, such as global shifts in wine markets, changing consumer trends, the general Bordeaux identity and sales crisis, or introducing new initiatives at the estate – that he’s at his most engaging. It’s no secret that Bordeaux, among other regions, is currently struggling (see Andrew Jefford’s feature, ‘ The problem with Bordeaux, and how to fix it ’, October 2024 issue – and the reader responses to it). But while even first growths aren’t immune, Alexis’ outlook remains positive and steadfast. ‘There are always ups and downs, and yes, it affects us. It’s going to be a low-turnover year, so we’ll have to be careful for a few years because costs don’t decrease. But we still have demand and we’re selling more today than we were after the economic crisis of 2008.’ It’s a case of ‘sit tight and wait’ to see what happens with the global economic situation. Ultimately, ‘we won’t take any big risks and will try to remain optimistic’. For investors, Alexis says, Margaux is still a ‘good buy’, in terms of average price increases from en primeur to the secondary market over time. As to Bordeaux’s general appeal, Alexis thinks it’s a ‘shame’ to say that the wines are boring and old-fashioned because ‘we are the oldest in some ways’. Such wines, he says, ‘may be less trendy, because they have been around so long, and it may be more fun to go into a store and buy a random label from an appellation you’ve never heard of’ – but, he maintains, those who are fortunate enough to try some of Margaux’s old vintages become ‘fans for life’. A personal favourite for Alexis is the 1953, although he admits he hasn’t tried them all... ‘You can taste great young wines everywhere in the world, but an 80- or 90-year-old wine that brings so much pleasure, so much freshness, so much elegance? That is a Bordeaux first growth – that is Château Margaux!’ No magic tools As for engaging younger consumers, ‘there are no magic tools’. Alexis assures that the grand vin won’t be changing in style to appeal to changing tastes but, as part of stricter selections, and to bring in a new audience via more accessible and earlier-drinking wines, the family have introduced two new labels over the years: a third red wine Margaux du Château Margaux in 2009, and more recently the white Pavillon Blanc second wine released in December 2023. And they won’t be investing in a new estate elsewhere. In a market where diversification is often touted as essential, Alexis is resolute in focusing exclusively on Château Margaux. ‘We have one estate, one focus, and that’s what keeps us grounded,’ he says. This singular dedication reflects the family’s belief that Margaux alone is vast enough to offer a lifetime of work. ‘There’s enough here to keep me – and the team – busy every day. Plus, whatever we buy wouldn’t be as good.’ The big difference? ‘Terroir – this is why we’re a classified growth. You can have the best technical team in the world, but if you don’t have great terroir, you’ll never be able to make great wine,’ he says. [caption id="attachment_546886" align="alignnone" width="630"] Château Margaux[/caption] Securing the future Under Alexis’ leadership, Château Margaux is making architectural changes to the estate, finding ways to respond to environmental challenges in the vineyards and becoming increasingly technologically efficient in the winery. The team is experimenting with rootstocks, trialling taller vines in order to withstand summer heat and winter frost, incorporating shading techniques and mineral clays to protect vines, and planting new grape varieties – including Carmenère, Malbec and Castets – to better adapt to climate change. They use sheep for eco-grazing and are gradually removing pine trees – to reduce soil acidity and fire risks – while planting 1.6 km of hedges to enhance biodiversity. They make their own compost and use almost no plastic. There has also been heavy investment in R&D, with nearly 10,000 bottles dedicated solely to a process of experimentation. ‘There’s a lot going on behind the scenes,’ Alexis says, adding that a new cellar master, general services manager and communications director will all be joining shortly. Another of the estate’s significant (and long-term) projects involves gradually reorienting the vineyards to optimise sun exposure and minimise heat stress. ‘It will take 40 to 50 years to complete, but it’s an investment in the future of our terroir,’ he explains. It’s hard to imagine being so excited about something you may never see finished – such is life in this industry – but he clearly is. Staying true Looking ahead, Alexis envisions a Château Margaux that remains at the forefront of quality and relevance. ‘In 30 years, if people list the top wines in the world, Margaux should be part of it,’ he says. ‘We want the quality to stay the same, maybe even improve, but it’s all about keeping Margaux true to itself.’ I wrongly assumed that a key perk of being CEO would be raiding the cellars at will – a 1961 here, a 1982 there – but even Alexis has to wait until Margaux offers the chance to buy the wines once a year. ‘Every bottle is accounted for, so there’s none of that,’ he says. Alexis sees himself more as a custodian than an owner, aware that Margaux ‘was here before us and will be here long after us’. His role, he says, is to ‘protect and enhance the estate, ensuring it continues to bring people joy for generations’. For lovers of its wines, the good news is that the estate is in reliably safe hands. 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