Bordeaux's style counsel: The perpetual rise of the region's white wines

Bordeaux is famous for its ageworthy reds, but its dry white wines are having a moment. To crib from a well-known US folk artist, ‘the times they are a changin’ with regards to these typically Sauvignon Blanc - or Semillon -dominant white wines. Although close to 90% of Bordeaux’s 110,000ha under vine are still made up of red grape varieties, production and demand for the region’s dry whites continues to rise. Scroll down for notes and scores of 12 scintillating white wines from Bordeaux [subscriber-content] A new regional chapter While the Left Bank is a stronghold for dry white Bordeaux, there is more to the region than just Pessac-Léognan and Graves , with many emerging areas where specific cooler sites – often freshened by the presence of limestone – yield exciting, vibrant wines. Indeed, a new Médoc Blanc appellation has been approved for wines bottled in 2025 (subject to an objection period). And while in Sauternes and Barsac sweet wines still reign, there’s a growing trend for dry styles there, too. On the Right Bank, white grapes are grown on diverse plots in St-Emilion and Fronsac , with high-quality wines also found in Blaye, Francs and Côtes de Bourg. And, with close to 7,000ha under vine (about 1,600ha of white grapes), the Entre-deux-Mers remains a powerhouse for dry whites. Originally oriented to entry-level wines and higher volumes, a new wave of wines is emerging. These balance keen pricing with a fresh, modern style, often with floral, grassy Sauvignon Blanc characters leading the way. Left Bank activity [caption id="attachment_561917" align="alignnone" width="600"] Jacques Lurton, president of the Syndicat Viticole de Pessac-Léognan. Credit:L Hélène Brun-Puginier/Les Vignobles Andre Lurton[/caption] The new 2025 Médoc Blanc appellation shows how things are changing. Christophe Gouache, owner of early white pioneer Château Loudenne, observes: ‘The Médoc has been home to small quantities of high-quality dry whites since Loudenne was planted with white grapes in 1880.’ In fact, in the past, this area was better known for whites than reds. Premium wines, including Château Margaux’s Pavillon Blanc (first vintage 1920, although white wine has been produced at the chateau since 1710), Mouton Rothschild’s Aile d’Argent (1991) and Cos d’Estournel Blanc (2005), have led the way, but the opportunities for new and innovative blends ( Château d’Issan has begun production of a Rhône-style white blend , Jardin d’Issan), many at easier price-points, will likely shape Bordeaux’s dry whites for years to come. According to Hélène Larrieu, director of ODG, the Médoc wine producers’ representative organisation, there are some 225ha planted to whites in the Médoc across 90 producers, with about half (120ha) likely to qualify for the new AP. Larrieu says that ‘the objective is to differentiate the wines of Médoc from others in Bordeaux’, describing Médoc whites as ‘wines characterised by notes of exotic fruit together with salinity from proximity to the Gironde estuary and Atlantic ocean’. Jacques Lurton (pictured, above) , president of the Syndicat Viticole de Pessac-Léognan and president and winemaker of Vignobles Famille André Lurton, which owns five white wine-producing estates across Bordeaux, is enthusiastic about prospects for these dry gems. He notes: ‘Historically, there were three key areas: Entre-deux-Mers was oriented to entry-level wines often dominated by [zesty, tropical] thiol characters, together with the Graves and Pessac-Léognan.’ Lurton credits the creation of the Pessac-Léognan AP 37 years ago with raising the white wine quality bar ‘as high as possible in Bordeaux – on the quality level of [ Burgundy’s ] Côte d’Or and [ Champagne’s ] Côte des Blancs’. Lurton is also a fan of dry whites from producers in Sauternes and Barsac. ‘They already had a great understanding of their grapes, together with knowledge of barrel fermentation,’ he says. Semillon is more significant here, resulting in a richer, less aromatic style with great ageing potential. Changing styles & grapes [caption id="attachment_561920" align="alignnone" width="630"] Château Malartic Lagravière in Pessac-Léognan[/caption] Stylistically, there’s a marked move away from oak-influenced wines across the Bordeaux region. Still a key component for top-end wines, oak is less evident, with many cuvées aged in steel or cement tanks, sometimes combined with the use of clay amphorae . ‘The idea is to keep freshness, bring balance and vibrancy,’ says Séverine Bonnie of Château Malartic Lagravière. The presence of limestone in soils adds freshness, as shown by producers such as the Guinaudeau family of Château Lafleur in Pomerol. Their Les Champs Libres is a top-end Right Bank white capable of competing with those from Pessac-Léognan, albeit with a markedly different texture. And recent vintages of the family’s more entry-level Grand Village Blanc (see recommendations, below) show the great strides being made on cooler sites and represent real value. Bordeaux is also embracing new disease-resistant hybrid ‘Piwi’ varieties such as Floréal and Souvignier Gris. These can be used as ‘experimental’ varieties up to 5% individually in a blend (no more than 10% in total); and even more in the new Médoc Blanc AP, where Chardonnay and Alvarinho will also be permitted. Although unlikely to take over from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon any time soon, the development of new varieties such as these shows the scope for even more diversification in years to come. [breakout] Five benchmark Bordeaux whites to look out for Château La Garde Blanc A fresh, modern Pessac-Léognan white, primarily Sauvignon Blanc on deep limestone with some Semillon, vinified in oak to balance zesty citrus and mineral notes with a chiselled texture. Château Valandraud Blanc A rare, opulent St-Emilion white from Jean-Luc Thunevin, blending Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, crafted with barrel and tank fermentation, and new oak-ageing for rich, tropical fruit and soft, rounded flavours. Le Cygne An insider’s secret Bordeaux Blanc from Listrac-Médoc’s Château Fonréaud, made from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, hand-harvested and fermented in barrels (30%- 40% new) with lees aging for a complex, peachy and floral profile. Le Petit Cheval, Blanc An extremely limited St-Emilion white, made from 6ha planted 80/20 Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, fermented and aged in oak barrels to produce a refined, mineral-driven wine with citrus and floral complexity. Les Hauts de Smith Blanc A vibrant and great-value second wine from Château Smith Haut Lafitte, made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak barrels (less new oak than the grand vin) for a crisp, mineral-driven wine with lemon rind, apple and aniseed notes. [/breakout] Semillon-dominant [caption id="attachment_561918" align="alignnone" width="600"] Cyrille Thienpont, Château Puygueraud ( see recommendations, below) [/caption] The classic Bordeaux blend is a mix of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in barrel and given extended ageing in wood. Muscadelle and/or Sauvignon Gris may also be used in the blend, adding extra floral lift or weightier, exotic notes. The wines are distinctive, often with a waxy texture adding an extra dimension to the ripe white/yellow peach fruit, with a burst of lemon and lime zest acidity. Semillon-dominated blends will often have plenty of concentration and ageing potential. Pessac-Léognan leads the way, with many top-quality wines that are a match for the better wines of the Côte d’Or. Although blends will vary from vintage to vintage, Semillon is usually the dominant variety in Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc – a wine produced in tiny quantities and selling at extremely rarefied prices. Dry wines from Sauternes and Barsac often have a high proportion of Semillon, with the barrel-fermentation and maturation in wood more restrained than in leading wines from Pessac-Léognan. Sauvignon Blanc-dominant Wines in which Sauvignon Blanc dominates often have more forceful, fruit-driven, grassy and floral notes than the creamy-textured character seen with significant additions of Semillon. Lemon, lime and grapefruit characters combine with vibrant acidity to create a palate with freshness and drive. Grapes grown on cooler, limestone-oriented sites may also display mineral or salty notes on the finish. Wines produced at entry- to mid-price levels are often vinified in steel, aiming to preserve freshness. Wood may be used in more premium wines, usually with an emphasis on subtlety so that the texture and flavours imparted don’t diminish Sauvignon Blanc’s natural vitality. [/subscriber-content] Howard’s pick: A 12-wine tour of Bordeaux’s dry white styles [wine-collection] Related articles A new dawn beckons for the Médoc’s white wines Bordeaux: Building the future My Bordeaux: 10 city hotspots to seek out

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