Hamilton Russell: Reflecting on 50 years

Anniversaries seem to be arriving thick and fast at the renowned Hemel-en-Aarde producer, Hamilton Russell. A couple of years ago, I wrote a piece for Decanter on the 2021 release – current owner Anthony Hamilton Russell’s 40th vintage since he joined his father Tim Hamilton Russell at the estate. Now, in 2025, the estate is celebrating 50 years since its creation in 1975. Scroll down for notes and scores of Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay [subscriber-content] Cool climate Hamilton Russell estate is situated in the lower part of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, an area which today covers around 6,000 hectares (ha) with 388ha currently under vine. Hemel-en-Aarde was established as a Wine of Origin (WO) in 2006 and is seen as the home of South Africa’s finest expression of cooler-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir . The Hamilton Russell family have long been innovators and influencers, both within the Cape wine region and across many countries. Tim, a Bordeaux lover, first planted vines in 1975 in a virtually unknown area close to Hermanus. Its relatively cool maritime climate, influenced by proximity to the cold, south Atlantic Ocean, rapidly indicated that the future lay with the classic Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first Pinot Noir vintage was 1981, and the first Chardonnay was vinified a year later in 1982. A tasting of this first vintage in March 2022 revealed a delicate, fine Pinot with just 12% alcohol and ethereal notes of rose petal, red berry and delicate spice. The purity of the wine showed how special this area is for production of Burgundian-style Pinot and Chardonnay. [breakout] Hamilton Russell Estate Owners: Anthony and Olive Hamilton Russell Grape source: Direct from owned, managed vineyards Total vineyard area: Hamilton Russell Vineyards 52ha Total estate area: Ashbourne 64ha, Southern Right 448ha Number of wines: 9 Appellation/Wine of Origin: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

[/breakout] Less ego However, Anthony is adamant that imitation of the Côte d’Or has never been the objective; instead the family wanted their wines to be ‘a reflection of the vintage and the place’. Asked whether the style has changed in recent years, he says: ‘Yes, in the early 2000s the wines were more full-on with more wood – and more malolactic characters in the Chardonnay.’ He believes they are now, ‘producing a wine with less “ego” and less wood influence – one that is searching for the most beautiful way to express the 52ha at the estate.’ Underlying terroir [caption id="attachment_559494" align="alignnone" width="840"] Proprietor Anthony Hamilton Russell showing the texture of the 400-million-year-old Bokkeveld Shale that underlies the clay rich topsoil.[/caption] Anthony highlights the difference in geology between the Lower Valley, that of the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde and the Ridge. Based lower down, Hamilton Russell Estate has ‘the toughest soils with a very high clay content’. Ironically, the clay content in Hemel-en-Aarde ranges from 35-55%, which is broadly similar to… the Côte d’Or. When asked to compare the style of Hamilton Russell, Anthony says the estate wines are ‘less fruit-forward, they are more masculine, more structured, yet are more restrained’. He notes that: ‘It’s the clay that makes the difference – rather than the temperature. If the underlying geology was sandstone here, this would not be a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay area.’ Signature style On tasting the wines, it becomes clear that there is an unmistakable ‘thumbprint’ which identifies Hamilton Russell Estate. There are clearly vintage variations but, with time in bottle, the terroir shines through. Some vintages initially show more dark fruit, others are more aromatic, and there can be significant variations in alcohol – the 2020 and 2024 Pinot Noir were both under 13% alcohol. Yet, the wines remain clearly Hamilton Russell wines. Anthony says that with the estate Chardonnay he is, ‘searching for more than just fruit-expression’. A growing proposition Another significant change lies with the expansion of vineyards and wine cellars in Hemel-en-Aarde since Tim first planted vines in 1975. Anthony notes that when he arrived at the estate in 1991, ‘Hamilton Russell was the only producer, now there are 28 winemakers and 13 wine cellars’. He also proudly points out that ‘four ex-winemakers of ours are still living and working in the valley’. It feels as though Anthony is very much the ‘godfather’ of this special place, and there is an undeniable spirit of respect, co-operation and a collegiate desire for the region to do well, among the many producers. Strong future Asked to predict how the estate will change in the future, Anthony believes that evolving vineyard and vinification practices will continue to be a key factor. ‘Today we use lighter oak toasting, we farm organically, we are not picking earlier yet the wines are lower in alcohol – this is mostly down to changes in viticulture,' he notes. ‘We have the same clonal mix today (Dijon clones 113, 115, 667 and 777) but there is a much higher percentage of non-virused vines. We use less pumpovers, yet punchdown more. This gives us the equivalent of whole bunch without the risk of added phenolics.’ In conclusion, Anthony predicts a strong future both for the estate and Hemel-en-Aarde. There remains a continuous process of self-challenge within the team – ‘How do you improve if you can’t find fault?’ Like the man in charge, Hamilton Russell Estate wines are not attention-seekers but they undoubtedly offer some of the finest, most individual, expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay anywhere in the world. [/subscriber-content] Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay [wine-collection] Related articles South Africa's Hemel-en-Aarde: A Chardonnay paradise South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting results 100 years of Pinotage: South Africa's homegrown grape comes good

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Hamilton Russell: Reflecting on 50 years

Scroll down for notes and scores of Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

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