Ripe for discovery: 10 jewels of Central and Eastern Europe

As a young wine buyer, I cut my teeth sourcing from vast state wine factories in Central and Eastern Europe (Bulgarian Cabernet or Slovenian Lutomer Laški Rizling, anyone?), and ever since, I’ve been fascinated with the region’s wines. I’ve witnessed a complete revolution in winemaking since the collapse of the Iron Curtain, leading to today’s diversity of exciting and delicious wines – and luckily for readers, they’re increasingly available in export markets. Across the extensive region, each country has emerged from its volume-production past in a different way, and wine is such a great lens through which to follow these stories – it brings together the stunning landscapes, climate, grapes and people who shape it. [subscriber-content] An enviable backstory Central and Eastern European countries aren’t just recent upstarts but have deep, authentic roots and multi-millennial wine histories. Recent research shows that the Balkan peninsula and Central and Eastern Europe were important mixing grounds on the route of grapevines travelling west after domestication in the Caucasus and Near East around 11,000 years ago, which may explain the incredible diversity here. Wines from the region have enjoyed a noble history – reaching royal tables (Hungary’s Tokaji was adored by Louis XIV) and international shows (wines from Serbia’s Negotin region were showcased at the Royal Albert Hall in 1874). Flavour map History is important for context, but it matters more how the wines taste today. For anyone interested in new wine experiences, Central and Eastern Europe represents a fascinating mosaic of flavours, whether from small producers rediscovering their family roots, passionate newcomers, or big names reinventing themselves from quantity to quality. Each country’s local grapes have been key stories – with tales of workhorse grapes transforming into sleek thoroughbreds, or forgotten varieties rescued from extinction. Selecting a favourite is difficult, as I have real soft spots for Hárslevelű , Teran , Rara Neagră and, of course, the great Central and Eastern European red grape Blaufränkisch/Kékfrankos ( recently covered in a panel tasting: read the results in the Decanter August issue, or on Decanter Premium online ). But I’ve opted for Kadarka/Gamza ( see my recommendation further down ) for this feature, in which my trade colleagues, fellow writers and I each highlight a grape variety that we’re especially passionate about, to help you dive into the world of Central and Eastern European wines – all available to try in the UK. Ten grapes & wines to try Dimyat Recommended by Dimitar Nikolov – Apollo Wine managing partner & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571031" align="alignnone" width="630"] From left: winemakers Rosen and Kapka Georgievi of Korten Winery[/caption] Dimyat, one of Bulgaria’s most authentic white grapes, has always fascinated me. Mainly grown along the Black Sea coast, it captures the sea’s freshness – citrus zest, white flowers and a delicate saline note that makes it instantly evocative in the glass. I admire Dimyat for its clarity and honesty: it’s a wine that doesn’t pretend, yet delivers elegance and charm. If you enjoy the crystalline lift of Muscadet or Albariño , Dimyat will feel like a discovery – familiar, but with a softer, more Mediterranean accent. It’s my go-to with oysters, grilled fish or summer salads. The Byala Single Vineyard Dimyat 2024 ( £20 The Beerhive ) from Odessos Winery ( below ), based in Varna, northeast Bulgaria, and the Natura Chardonnay & Dimyat 2023 ( £16 Camber Wines ) from Korten Winery – near Stara Zagora in the country’s centre – are excellent examples that show just how graceful this historic grape variety can be today. Fetească Albă Recommended by Ana Jackson MW – Amathus Drinks head of wine business development & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571030" align="alignnone" width="630"] Fetească Albă grapes on the vine[/caption] Fetească Albă (‘white maiden’) is an ancient variety, potentially domesticated from wild vines, grown in Romania, Moldova, Hungary (where it’s called Leányka) and Ukraine. It’s often mentioned alongside Fetească Regală (‘royal maiden’), a cross of Fetească Albă and Frâncușa, indigenous to Romania. The two Feteascăs are frequently blended together or with international grapes – top Romanian producer Davino, for instance, makes excellent, well-priced blends with Fetească Albă – though varietal wines are also made. With naturally small yields, Albă is less aromatic than Regală, offering a broader, more persistent palate with modest alcohol. It produces characterful whites that are delicately floral and mineral, with a rounded palate and fresh acidity. Increasingly, it’s also being used to craft high-quality sparkling wines. Try Waitrose, Loved&Found Fetească Albă Brut 2024 (£9.25), a fresh and youthful Charmat sparkling from Moldova with pear and floral notes, layered fruit, a subtle touch of ginger spice and a soft, lingering finish. A delightful crowdpleaser with real character – at a great price! Furmint Recommended by Andrew Johnson – managing director, WoodWinters Agencies [caption id="attachment_571016" align="alignnone" width="630"] István Balassa in Hungary’s Tokaj region. Credit: Nandor Lang[/caption] If I were to recommend one grape variety from Central and Eastern Europe, Furmint, from its home in Hungary, would be the clear winner. Still hugely underrated, this grape in many ways mirrors Chenin Blanc in that it can produce both dry and sweet wines. It can benefit from being aged in oak, but can also be extremely expressive and refreshing without. There’s a wonderful density to these wines, often thrilling acidity, full of electric verve, as well as incredible layering. The flavour profile is often complex, so expect anything from a citrus core to streaks of stone fruit and a hint of spice. Balassa, Furmint, Tokaji, Hungary 2023 from The Wine Society is an amazing example – and a steal at £13.50. Malvazija Istarska Recommended by Saša Spiranec – wine writer & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571020" align="alignnone" width="630"] Kozlović vineyards in the north of Croatian Istria[/caption] Malvazija Istarska (otherwise known as Malvasia Istriana) has the rare quality of being universally appealing while remaining anything but ordinary. Its moderate to low acidity and core of stone fruit give it immediate charm, while its salinity, depth and almost Alsace-like concentration and texture mean it’s capable of making a serious, long-lived wine. Though it shares its name with the broad family of Mediterranean Malvasias, which stretch from Greece to Madeira , it isn’t directly related to them. Instead, it’s a unique Istrian variety, grown mainly in Croatia and Slovenia , with a small presence in Italy’s Friuli. A fabulous introduction is Kozlović, Malvazija, Istria, Croatia 2023 (£17.64-£21.80 Fintry Wines , Noble Green , Theatre of Wine , Vinvm , Wine Poole ). Olaszrizling Recommended by Zsuzsa Toronyi – managing director of wine communication and organiser of The Ultimate CEE Wine Fair & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571022" align="alignnone" width="630"] Aleksandar Vinčić in Fruška Gora, northern Serbia[/caption] I’d like to put Olaszrizling – arguably the most widely enjoyed grape in Central and Eastern Europe – on your radar. Despite the name, it isn’t related to Germany’s Riesling . Instead, it goes under many identities: Welschriesling, Olaszrizling, Graševina, Grašac, Rizling Vlašský and more. Recently, a new initiative named GROW (taking the initials of these names) has been formed to bring these grape identities together under a single regional banner. Typically fresh, light and easy to drink, Olaszrizling shows notes of lemon, stone fruit, almond and a hint of spice – yet it also has the remarkable ability to produce layered wines that meet international standards. These range from crisp dry whites to Austria’s botrytis -influenced sweet styles, with medals and trophies across categories at the Decanter World Wine Awards. I felt privileged to spotlight the grape while sitting on Badacsony Hill in Hungary, Olaszrizling in hand, enjoying the September sun and looking over vineyards that roll down to lake Balaton. Try the 2023 Zelna Olaszrizling (£11.95 The Wine Society ) from Balaton , or explore the exceptional Vinčić, Grašac, Fruška Gora, Srem, Serbia 2020 (£160-£170 Hic , Niko ), which won Best in Show at DWWA 2023. Rebula Recommended by Robert Gorjak – Belvin Wine School founder, author & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571024" align="alignnone" width="630"] Aleks Simčič, winemaker and owner of Edi Simčič winery in Slovenia. Credit: Marijan Moźivnik[/caption] Rebula (aka Ribolla Gialla) is an ancient white variety grown in Slovenia’s Primorska region and in Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy. Historically, the first known mentions of its presence date from the 14th and 13th centuries respectively, in contractual records. Three decades ago it seemed to be on the brink of extinction, yet today Rebula is the most widely planted variety in Brda, with practically every winery producing at least two – often more – distinctive styles of this versatile yet aromatically restrained grape. Yields must be carefully controlled and Rebula shows its true character when grown on the poor marly soils locally known as opoka . Edi Simčič, Rebula, Brda 2022 (£24.55-£29.99 Hic , The Whisky Exchange , Vino Fandango , Vinvm ) is a quintessential illustration: restrained yet complex, with subtle notes of oak ageing cleverly adding nuance to its aroma profile. Dry and saline, it reveals its full character more on the palate than on the nose – a faithful partner at the table. Kadarka/Gamza Recommended by Caroline Gilby MW – awarded author & DWWA joint Regional Chair across several categories [caption id="attachment_571025" align="alignnone" width="630"] Burgozone winery, by the Danube in the far north of Bulgaria[/caption] Two names for one variety, mainly grown in Hungary and Bulgaria. I love it for its joyful wines, which I can share with wine nerds or family and friends alike. It was once Hungary’s most important red and a signature for northern Bulgaria, but it struggled in the face of the fashion for big, bold, tannic reds. It’s a sort of Central and Eastern European Pinot Noir in style – thin-skinned berries, pale appearance with light tannins, refreshing acidity and typically raspberry and strawberry fruit, often with a distinctly spicy twist. It’s also tricky to grow – its Bulgarian name, Gamza, means ‘capricious’ – so growers often switched to more reliable grapes. Luckily Kadarka/ Gamza is coming back into favour for its deliciously drinkable, juicy reds, never heavy, and perfect for today’s tastes in food – anything spicy, mushrooms, lentils, peppers, or served chilled with nibbles. Try the Thomas Gamza, Danube Plain, Bulgaria 2023 (£23.75 Vine & Bine ) from Burgozone ( below ), or Sebestyén’s Kadarka, Szekszárd, Hungary 2023 (£22 Forest Wines ). Mavrud Recommended by Dilyan Kolev – The Jolly Merchants director & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571043" align="alignnone" width="630"] Katarzyna Estate, which lies at the foor of the eastern Rhodope mountains in Bulgaria. Credit: Katarzyna Estate[/caption] I would like to spotlight Mavrud, an ancient grape that originates from and still thrives in the Thracian Valley of Bulgaria – a source of national pride celebrated on 26 October with International Mavrud Day. It’s a grape that wears a suit and a pair of sneakers – capable of creating a broad spectrum of wine styles: elegant and zippy sparkling wines, the occasional still blanc de noir, juicy rosés, modern, harmonious and well-balanced reds, and even dessert wines! Unique in character, it boasts notes of black cherries, forest fruits and dried herbs, often alongside spices and lush dark chocolate – always with plenty of complexity. A very good reference is Katarzyna Estate’s Cheval de Katarzyna 2022 (£14.90 Danube Wines ). Prokupac Recommended by Igor Luković – Vino & Fino magazine editor in chief & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571028" align="alignnone" width="630"] Nikola Mladenović Matalj in Negotin, eastern Serbia[/caption] Once on the brink of extinction, Prokupac has staged a remarkable comeback in just a decade. Serbia’s most important indigenous red, it’s so ancient that knowledge of its parentage remains incomplete. Typical wines show moderate colour and a medium to full body, with cherry, plum, cranberry and blackberry lifted by spicy, peppery notes. Tannins can be sharp in youth but soften with age, best when the wine is matured in large, used oak. The finest examples are built to age. Neglected during the socialist era and only used to make rustic rosés, Prokupac survived thanks to small winemakers in Zupa, Toplica and Sumadija. Limestone soils give deeper colour, body and dark berries, while clay and cooler sites yield lighter, silkier wines leaning to red fruit. Versatility is part of its charm – with blanc de noirs and sparklings now added to the mix. Try Doja, Breg Prokupac, Toplica 2020 (£42 Hic ) for an opulent style, or Matalj, Bukovski, Negotin 2020 (£24.99 Latitude ), a spicy, elegant blend with Kadarka and Začinak, typical of the Negotin region. Vranec Recommended by Will Hill – managing and buying director, Novel Wines & DWWA judge [caption id="attachment_571029" align="alignnone" width="630"] Tikveš winery’s vineyards in the Barovo region in the south of North Macedonia. Credit: Marijan Moźivnik[/caption] Vranec (Vra’-netz) deserves far greater recognition among red wine lovers. Native to the Balkans, particularly North Macedonia (which lies at a similar latitude to Tuscany , Bordeaux and Napa ), it produces intensely coloured, full-bodied wines with ripe black cherry, plum and blackberry notes, always balanced by its good acidity and firm tannins – a trademark of how it earns its name, which means ‘strong, black, powerful horse’, or ‘black stallion’. Distinctive spicy and peppery undertones, often with dark chocolate or liquorice hints, make Vranec both aromatic and complex. And while most examples we find in the UK are younger, Vranec can age beautifully, developing mature meaty and leathery flavours that would delight any lover of more classic aged reds. Vranec also embodies regional heritage and a unique taste of place, and is celebrated across many countries. For producers, it provides adaptability to warm climates and reliable yields, supporting sustainable viticulture in its homeland. Vranec truly is a compelling, underappreciated red with both depth and authenticity. Try it for yourself with a great example from the renowned Tikveš Winery in North Macedonia: the Luda Mara Vranec, Tikveš 2022 (£17.20 Shelved Wine ). [/subscriber-content] Related articles The marvellous world of orange wines: Everything you wanted to know explained by an expert Malvasia: A guide to this ancient grape and its sprawling worldwide family Spätburgunder: Panel tasting results

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