Pinot Noir powerhouse: the Ahr Valley

At just 85km long, the Ahr river runs along a valley that’s home to arguably the finest Pinot Noir -producing region in Germany . One of the country’s smallest wine regions, the Ahr yielded about 6.1 million bottles a year on average from 2017-2022. The fervent local demand for Ahr Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) means that, frustratingly for Pinot lovers around the globe, only meagre quantities find their way onto the export market. The region takes its name from the Ahr, a winding, twisting tributary of the Rhine, better described on most days as a creek. But a devastating flood in July 2021 transformed this diminutive river into one of Germany’s most catastrophic natural disasters, overshadowing the fame of the region’s wines. More than 130 people perished in the Ahr valley and all but a handful of the region’s 42 wine producers suffered flood damage, many losing their homes and wineries entirely. Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 20 Ahr Valley Pinot Noirs [subscriber-content]Deadly floods are not unfamiliar in this narrow valley, where villages are anchored near the rivers. ‘Everyone knows a great flood happens here every 100 years,’ says Meike Näkel who, with her sister Dörte, runs Weingut Meyer-Näkel. The flood destroyed their winery, along with most of their 2020 vintage. Climate change has exacerbated incidents of flooding and other extreme weather in the region, explains Näkel. And it has made the weather much harder to predict. ‘We know there will be a next flood and perhaps sooner than in 100 years,’ she says. Saved by the slopes Three years after the flood, the valley is still an active construction zone with gutted homes and businesses, wrecked roads and bridges still lingering. According to Hans-Jörg Lüchau, operations manager and winemaker of Weingut Deutzerhof, as well as the manager of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter office in Ahr, only 20ha of the Ahr’s vineyards in the flatlands near the river were permanently destroyed. Thankfully, the steep inclines where most of the region’s vineyards are planted were largely untouched by the floodwaters. Despite the deep trauma that hangs over the region still, resilience and optimism abound. The flood prompted an outpouring of support from people across Germany – and from within the wine trade around the world – and an influx of reconstruction funds, a silver lining to the tragedy. Wineries throughout the valley are rebuilding with upgraded facilities and the most modern equipment. ‘There’s a great deal of potential for producers to take things to a new level, even higher than it was before the flood,’ says Lüchau. Balancing on the edge But the catastrophe also triggered debate in the Ahr about how to address future threats. Julia Bertram and Benedikt Baltes, owners of the winery Bertram-Baltes (pictured, opposite), are increasingly concerned about not only climatic instability but political instability, too. While the winery has been certified organic since 2019, Bertram concedes that even further steps towards ecologically sound cellar and vineyard practices are necessary for the region to become both self-reliant and sustainable. ‘Wines from the Ahr are defined by our northerly latitude and slate soils,’ says Bertram. Situated north of the 50th parallel (similar to prime vineyard sites across the southern counties of England), the Ahr is a cool-climate wine region at the precipice of marginality for wine-growing. Still, the Ahr valley is planted with more than 85% red varieties – a higher percentage than any other region in Germany. According to Wines of Germany (DWI), in 2019 Pinot Noir made up more than 65% of the vines planted in the Ahr, along with growing percentages (6%) of exemplary Frühburgunder, or Pinot Noir Précoce. Riesling was the most plentiful white grape but comprised only 8% of vines. Surprisingly, though, the average temperature in the Ahr is warmer than in regions further south, such as the Mosel. Temperatures in the valley are lifted by the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream, while the rain shadow of the nearby Eifel mountains to the west shields the valley from cold wind and hail. Because the Ahr river is oriented from west to east, its northern banks are edged by south-facing inclines (as high as 75% in parts of the Mönchberg at Mayschoss) providing optimal exposure for vines. Overhangs of stone and the darkly coloured slate, greywacke (dark, hard sandstone) and volcanic soils absorb warmth in the day and radiate heat at night. The Ahr is one of the few regions in the world where Pinot Noir is grown on slate. ‘Pinot Noir reacts quite extremely to different soil types and the slate soils here, combined with the cooler climate of the Ahr, drive an expression that’s totally unique,’ says Näkel. [breakout] Ahr at a glance Area planted: 562ha before the 2021 flood, now about 542ha (source: Hans-Jörg Lüchau, VDP Ahr) Key grapes: 65% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 6% Frühburgunder (Pinot Noir Précoce), 8% Riesling (Wines of Germany, 2019) Producers: 42 plus three cooperatives Annual production (75cl bottles): 2022 6.8 million, 2021 5.3m, 2020 5.4m, 2019 5.5m, 2018 7.8m, 2017 6.3m (Deutscher Wein Statistik annual reports) Soil types: Steep rock formations of Devonian slate and greywacke are exposed in the middle Ahr valley to the west. In the lower Ahr valley to the east, slate is partially covered with loam, loess and sand Eight Ahr producers to know Bertram-Baltes, Dernau: A winery born out of the 2018 marriage of Julia Bertram and Benedikt Baltes, two natives of the Ahr who had already established independent reputations for excellent Spätburgunder. Focused on freshness rather than power, their winemaking reflects confidence in the unique identity of the Ahr. Certified organic. bertram-baltes.com Burggarten, Heppingen: The Schäfer family has grown grapes in the Ahr for four generations but the family domaine was established in 1989 when Pauljo and Gitta Schäfer purchased Burggarten, a defunct local cooperative. Today, Burggarten is operated by their three sons Paul-Michael, Heiko and Andreas. While 80% of the estate is planted with Spätburgunder, the estate is well known for Frühburgunder, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), too. Member of: VDP. weingut-burggarten.de Deutzerhof, Mayschoss-Ahr: Set back a distance from the Ahr river, Deutzerhof is nestled in the Mönchberg vineyard – an amphitheatre of slate and greywacke spanning almost 2km. Written records of the winery exist as early as 1574, and it is known now for fresh-fruited, peppery expressions of Spätburgunder and an exceptionally fragrant, structured Frühburgunder from the Herrenberg Grosse Lage vineyard (see p69). Member of: VDP, Fair’n Green. deutzerhof.de HJ Kreuzberg, Dernau Weingut: Kreuzberg’s production is dominated by excellent examples of Spätburgunder and Frühburgunder – particularly the finely textured Hardtberg GG. The domaine was established in 1953 when Hermann-Josef Kreuzberg left his local cooperative and is helmed today by his grandson Ludwig Kreuzberg. Member of: VDP. weingut-kreuzberg.de JJ Adeneuer, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler: The Adeneuer family’s wine-growing legacy spans more than three hundred years, but it was brothers Marc and Frank Adeneuer who, after they took over from their aunt in 1984, catapulted the estate with their richly concentrated expressions of Spätburgunder. The crown jewel of the estate is the GG Gärkammer (see p68), from a 0.68ha monopole owned by the Adeneuer family since 1714. Member of: VDP. adeneuer.de Jean Stodden, Rech: The Stodden family has tended vines in the Ahr since 1578. Spätburgunder is Stodden’s overwhelming focus and comprises at least 90% of its vines. The jewels of the estate are ungrafted centenarian Spätburgunder vines that have been propagated by massal selection throughout their vineyards. Stodden’s wines are perfumed, finely finessed and ageworthy. Member of: VDP, Fair’n Green, AmBiTo. stodden.de Nelles, Heimersheim: Nelles is one of the few producers in the Ahr producing Spätburgunder in volcanic basalt soils. Their powerhouse wines, labelled ‘B’ to signify their time in barrique, contrast their sleek, perfumed 1 Ahr Spätburgunder. Records suggest the family had been wine-growing in the Ahr as early as 1479. Today their estate is operated by father and son Thomas and Philip Nelles. Member of: VDP, Fair’n Green. weingut-nelles.de Meyer-Näkel, Dernau: Meike and Dörte Näkel have lent uniquely vibrant, perfumed touches to their father’s legacy of outstanding Spätburgunder. In the aftermath of the 2021 flood, nine barrels of their single-vineyard wines were recovered, some having drifted nearly 7km from the winery. Called the Lost Barrels project, the wines were released at events in Berlin, Bangkok and New York City. Member of: VDP, Fair’n Green. meyer-naekel.de Key terms VDP: The Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, an independent association of about 200 top wine producers across Germany, which identifies and regulates the very best vineyard sites – Grosse Lage (the dry wines from which are known as Grosses Gewächs) followed by Erste Lage. Fair’n Green: Recognised sustainability certification in agriculture and nutrition, members subject to annual audit. AmBiTo: Germany-wide project promoting biodiversity in viticulture. [/breakout] Evolution of a region Until the 1990s, the Ahr produced mostly easy-drinking, often sweet red and rosé wines. In a region where achieving consistent ripeness was historically a struggle, warming climates over the recent decades were largely a boon. Grapes ripen weeks earlier than they did a generation ago, but the region boasts a long growing season with dry, sunny days and cool nights during the harvest, which serves to preserve acidity, as Bertram explains: ‘Our wines have complexity and density, even if alcohol levels are low.’ It was producers such as Meyer-Näkel, Jean Stodden and JJ Adeneuer who sparked a quality revolution in the Ahr in the late 1980s. ‘My father’s generation looked to Burgundy as a model for quality,’ says Meike Näkel. Her father Werner Näkel honed in on the estate’s best sites, exchanged workhorse vines for Burgundy clones and imported French barriques. Thanks to their parents, says Näkel, ‘my generation just had to focus on fine-tuning how to better express our terroir in our wines’. Equipped with winemaking degrees from prestigious universities and internships with top Pinot Noir producers in Burgundy, New Zealand, Oregon and beyond, the new generation of winemakers in the Ahr also brought a global perspective to this isolated region. It used to be that everyone here was trying to make wines like Burgundy,’ says Deutzerhof’s Lüchau. ‘But we have completely different soils and a different climate. Winemakers today are finding our own styles that we can then compare against Burgundy,’ he says. In the wake of Brexit, the global pandemic and the 2021 flood, there is a notable decline in the number of Ahr producers exporting their wines. But the wines of the Ahr are a rare expression of Pinot Noir well worth seeking out. The Ahr valley itself is an attraction – a historic resort area less than half an hour’s drive from Bonn or an hour from Cologne. It’s renowned year-round for its spa towns, hiking and cycling trails; the Rotweinwanderweg (‘red-wine hiking trail’) connects more than 35km of wine towns west to east from Altenahr to Bad Bodendorf. In the face of its recent adversity, the Ahr region and its wines persist as testament to resilience and the enduring pursuit of excellence in winemaking. [/subscriber-content] Pinot delights: 20 Ahr Valley Pinot Noirs to try [wine-collection] Related articles Mercurey: A regional profile of this hidden corner of Burgundy The Middle Mosel for wine lovers Maximin Grünhaus: Producer profile and wines to try

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