The winemakers behind 'post-modern' Rioja

For those in the know, the diversity of wine in Rioja is absolutely staggering. One of Spain’s largest wine regions, and certainly its most famous, more than 64,000ha of vineyards are scattered across three major sub-regions, hundreds of vineyards, dozens of villages and a variety of terrains. For a long time, Rioja was pigeon-holed as being the home of classically made, long-matured red wines; yet these account for only a fraction of the wines produced in the region. In fact, today Rioja is one of Spain’s most fashionable wine regions, with a plethora of projects that have defined a new style, typically driven by small, terroir-focused winemakers who have brought an entirely new energy to the region. [subscriber-content] Shape-shifting influences But how did we get here? Some historical context is important; going back to the beginnings of what we now consider to be Rioja, traditional winemaking methods were indeed the identity of the region. The scourge of phylloxera – the vine root bug that decimated Bordeaux to the north in the late 19th century – led to an influx of winemaking acumen and momentum as Bordelais winemakers looked for a new beginning elsewhere. The connection between these two regions was set, and by the time phylloxera made it to Rioja in the 1890s and foreign winemakers returned to their home countries, the influence had been indelibly stamped. Short, gentle fermentations and long periods in barrel were the norm, leading to the age-based classification of joven (literally ‘young’, ‘youthful’), crianza , reserva and gran reserva that rewards longer ageing with an increasingly prestigious title. This style dominated for much of the 20th century, with the eventual birth of ‘modern’ Rioja, in the 1990s, then shaking the tree. A fashion for heavily extracted, powerful wines took hold – largely due to the influence of US-based wine critic Robert Parker – and many producers in Rioja were quick to adapt, not least because it allowed them to compete stylistically with the wines of rival Tempranillo-based denomination Ribera del Duero, to which they had unarguably lost some ground since the 1980s. Against this backdrop was the consistency of the cooperatives, responsible for much of the juicy young Rioja, made using the whole-berry carbonic maceration technique and designed for early drinking. These allowed for a different, more approachable and at times rustic side of Rioja to coexist alongside the traditional and modern styles. This ‘lower-brow’ style would greatly influence the development of what would subsequently come to be seen as ‘post-modern’ Rioja. [caption id="attachment_556608" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Arturo and Kike de Miguel[/caption] Exploring terroir diversity Ultimately, recent changes in style in Rioja were a result of a simultaneous curiosity about the terroir diversity of the region and a search for greater regional (and individual) identity. At the same time, consumers were starting to pivot away from those heavy, ponderous wines and also looking for a greater sense of place, paired with restraint. Rioja stretches almost 100km from northwest to southeast, and 30-40km across the middle; it’s a big place, with a great deal of variety between the separate regions. The Ebro, Spain’s longest river, runs through the centre of Rioja from its source in the northerly Cantabrian mountains, to the southeast, creating natural boundaries between some of its most famous sub-regions. The Ebro has huge significance for Rioja, its tributaries creating the seven river valleys that segment the region, producing a great variety of soil types and aspects. The complexity and interplay of these soils and aspects has been key in allowing the more ambitious producers to redefine the meaning of ‘modern’ Rioja, effectively thereby defining its postmodernity, too. One of the stars of this movement has been Miguel Merino, who in 1994 set out to create classically styled Rioja, holding back the release of his first wines until 2001. Merino died in 2021, but his son Miguel Jr, with his wife Erika, began to explore the microclimates around the village of Briones and became fascinated by the variation between vineyards Eventually the 13ha they own became 33 distinguished plots, microvinified and then blended to create their collection of eight wines. These have only recently been celebrated, and have become paradigmatic examples of port-modern Rioja. La Quinta Cruz is the star of the line-up, a single-varietal Mazuelo (Carignan) with all the depth and earthy savouriness of old-vine expressions of the variety, yet with a lighter, more delicate touch and deliciously soft tannins. Reaffirming identities Artuke, too, has a similar story. In 1991, Roberto de Miguel decided to start bottling the wine he had previously sold to larger wineries, hand-selling it around the region in a bid to build a reputation for himself as a standalone producer among restaurants and other potential clients. His sons, Arturo and Kike (hence ‘Artuke’) have since taken over and continue in the same vein, with a strong focus on the terroir north of the Ebro river, around the towns of San Vicente de Sonsierra, Abalos, Samaniego and Baños de Ebro. The generational handover caused some pain, with Arturo and Kike forgoing the (modern) heavy, warm macerations in favour of moderate, cooler fermentations, and considerably less new oak. ‘I wasn’t so interested in the heaviness of the wines we were producing at the time,’ explains Arturo. ‘There is no point in having such concentrated wines if there’s no sense of balance’. Artuke is not only a pioneer of the new village classification in Rioja (see below), but has also been instrumental in producing superb single-vineyard wines from remarkable vineyards, with La Condenada and El Escolladero consistently achieving sky-high scores and selling out almost immediately. [caption id="attachment_556610" align="alignnone" width="1066"] Carlos Mazo. Photo credit: Justo Rodriguez[/caption] Making wine in Rioja: Styles and periods at a glance Traditional Children of the 19th-century Bordeaux influence, traditional Rioja wines are, at the heart of it, blends that focus around Tempranillo as their core. Grenache adds weight and spice, Graciano perfume, and Mazuelo (Cariñena/Carignan) extra acidity and a touch of dark fruits. These grapes are often blended from various sub-regions, as each of them thrives in different climatic conditions. Fermentations tend to be short and gentle, with acidity at the heart of the wine style. Long ageing before release is common, and the labelling will distinguish accordingly, with joven, crianza, reserva and gran reserva being the ‘pyramid’ in ascending order. The ageing system of traditional Rioja means that these wines tend not to be ‘fruit-forward’, but display the complex aromas of slow ageing following lengthy periods in both barrel and bottle. American oak is the traditional choice of ageing vessel, with more elevated, high-toned aromas of dill, coconut and vanilla. CVNE , La Rioja Alta , López de Heredia and Muga are among the most highly regarded proponents of traditional winemaking in Rioja. Modern These are the wines of the 1990s to the mid-2000s, though many wineries are still opting for this powerhouse approach. Many are still blended and are categorised according to the classic pyramid of ageing requirements, but stylistically they are very different to traditional wines. Fermentations are longer, warmer and focus on a higher level of extraction. The grapes are also typically picked riper, leading to a luscious, darker fruit profile. Ageing is shorter than in traditional winemaking and tends to take place in newer, French oak barrels, and the wines have a more structured, serious and heavy framework. These wines are focused around fruit and tannin at their core. Benjamin Contador , Finca Allende and Roda are excellent examples of modern winemaking in Rioja. Post-modern The post-modern school focuses more on terroir than it does on blending, with a tangible emphasis on flavour transparency, indigenous grapes – and little on set ageing requirements. Provenance is more important than grape blends or time spent in barrel, so the labels of these wines tend to display their growing region, village or even single vineyard. Harvests are often earlier, to retain freshness in the wines, and fermentations are very gentle and aim for a slow extraction of tannin and flavour, often at cooler temperatures. Semicarbonic maceration is also popular in many of the younger wines for much the same reason, often producing immediately accessible, juicy, fruit-laden wines. A range of fermentation vessels is often used, with concrete, cement and clay amphorae becoming increasingly popular for the fine-grained tannins that are present in many of these wines. Ageing is common but tends to take place in older oak barrels, or a far smaller percentage of new oak than in modern winemaking. These wines will often stand the test of time, but a lot of their joy is in early consumption, where the energy of the wine is most obvious. Top producers of this style include Javier Arizcuren , Artuke , Victor Ausejo , Sandra Bravo , Miguel Merino and many more. [caption id="attachment_556614" align="alignnone" width="1070"] Sandra Bravo. Photo credit: Tim Atkin MW[/caption] Catalysts of change Miguel Merino and Artuke are just two among many other exciting names – such as Javier Arizcuren, Victor Ausejo, Sandra Bravo, José Gil, Carlos Mazo and Isa Ruiz at Vinos en Voz Baja, and many more – who are the new face of Rioja. Although small in production size their impact has been much larger, sparking a years-long debate within Rioja about changing denomination laws to accommodate these new wines, which focus on expressing terroir rather than blending across a broader region to build a style. In 2017, discussions culminated in new regulations allowing wines to be labelled as single-village and single-vineyard: Vino de Municipio and Viñedo Singular respectively. Revisions are ongoing, in a complex effort to ensure that the denomination’s labelling requirements celebrate both regional blending and a more terroir-focused approach... There are now three geographical classifications, beginning with Vino de Zona, which allows producers to label their wines Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta or Rioja Oriental. One level up is village wine – Vino de Pueblo (until recently Vino de Municipio) – which allows producers to name one of 144 villages on their label. Then there is Viñedo Singular, by which producers can reference a single plot, the vines of which must be at least 35 years old and harvesting done by hand at restricted yields. Much of this is effectively a tribute to an earlier age of Rioja, when large wineries didn’t exist and cross-regional blending was therefore not practical – production of single-vineyard wines was the default, though they wouldn’t have been labelled as such. It means that the new, terroir-focused approach now being brought in has a historical blueprint in the region. It comes as no surprise to see producers of many of these wines also utilising cement, concrete and other ancient vinification vessels and techniques. White winemaking has also seen a tremendous boost since this terroir-centric approach has taken off, both due to greater consumer demand and a renewed interest in local varieties beyond the dominant (red) Tempranillo. Even though white varieties account for less than 10% of total plantings in the region (according to Rioja consejo figures for 2022), a more hands-off approach to winemaking, higher-altitude plantings and earlier harvests are yielding lively, fresh and terroir-expressive white wines made from indigenous varieties. Twenty years ago, producer López de Heredia struggled to sell its long-aged, nutty, savoury white wines. Now you’re fortunate if you ever see them on a shop shelf, as the demand is so high. [caption id="attachment_556613" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Javier Arizcuren. Photo credit: Tim Atkin MW[/caption] New frontiers Perhaps the greatest benefit of this post-modern school of wines in Rioja is how it is opening Rioja up to new audiences and markets. Many of the producers behind the new-style wines focus on sustainable agriculture, which has a strong pull in metropolitan centres such as Copenhagen, Berlin, Tokyo and New York (the UK has long been an enthusiastic consumer of Rioja’s wines, topping the consejo chart for export destinations in 2022 with a 30% share of the total by volume). The small-scale nature of the productions is particularly attractive to sommeliers and wine enthusiasts who are looking for connections with those making their wines and the personable stories behind them. The generally lower levels of alcohol, higher levels of acidity and transparent approach to winemaking make for far more palatable companions at a dinner table, and allow for wines that have a life ahead of them but can also be consumed more easily in youth. Whether these post-modern wines become the region’s new icons will take a decade or two to verify – but based on the evidence in the glass, I wouldn’t bet against it! 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