Wine region 101: Victoria

Nestled in the far southeastern corner of Australia, the state of Victoria is small in the context of Australian states, making up just 3% of the nation’s land, but is a behemoth culturally, with a quarter of the population calling it home. Most dwell in the multicultural food mecca that is the city of Melbourne, the state capital. Despite its modest footprint, Victoria is home to more wine regions and more individual wineries than any other Australian state and is wonderfully diverse. From sub-alpine to maritime, continental to Mediterranean, its varied and various regions produce high-quality expressions of international grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Scroll down to see an introduction to the key wine areas in Victoria [subscriber-content]However, it has also seen a flourishing of alternative grape varieties over recent years, dominated by (though not limited to) Italian grapes (see ‘ Putting down roots ’, February 2025 issue ). This diversity and quality make this small but mighty state a haven for wine enthusiasts. While there are 21 wine regions in Victoria, here we take you on a whistlestop tour of the 12 most prominent. This is not to trivialise the remaining nine, though they are comparatively smaller or still in their phase of emergence within the Victorian wine landscape. Alpine Valleys In the state’s northeast at the foot of the Victorian Alps, this cool-climate region excels with elegant, fresh wines. Prosecco (permitted within Australia as a synonym for northern Italy’s Glera grape), Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir currently dominate its small-scale production, although alternative varieties – from Saperavi to Sangiovese – have been on the rise significantly. Beechworth Known for world-class Chardonnay, with names such as Giaconda and Savaterre leading the way, Beechworth also shines with Shiraz and Nebbiolo; the latter produces some of the country’s best expressions. Despite only having about 30 producers, Beechworth is a powerhouse in terms of Australia’s premium offerings. Geelong Once Victoria’s largest wine region before undergoing a century-long pause after phylloxera ravaged the area in the 1870s and ’80s, Geelong has rebounded as a benchmark for rich, ageworthy Chardonnay and savoury, structured Pinot. Renowned producers such as By Farr and Bannockburn shine with both varieties, made in a Burgundian style. Medium-bodied and savoury Shiraz is a strong feature of the region, too. Gippsland The sprawling region of Gippsland reaches from southeast of Melbourne for more than 300km to the border with New South Wales. It’s rainy and windswept, with a mere 50 or so wineries working with super-low yields. Here, the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with wine styles varying depending on where they’re planted. East Gippsland is all about power and structure, whereas South Gippsland tends to yield wines of delicacy and elegance. Grampians The picturesque Grampians region in western Victoria boasts a Mediterranean climate thanks to its proximity (100km- 200km) to the cooling Southern Ocean. The region focuses on Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, with elegance a key feature. The Grampians National Park offers stunning mountainous backdrops, while the region is steeped in Australian wine history thanks to producers such as Best Great Western and Seppelt Wines. Heathcote The Heathcote region is in central Victoria, about 110km north of Melbourne. This is one of Victoria’s largest Shiraz-producing areas, its warm climate and ancient Cambrian soils producing rich wines with dark, inky fruit and a firm structure. While Shiraz dominates, varieties such as Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Viognier also thrive. King Valley Thanks to the influence of Italian immigrants, the cool-climate King Valley in northeastern Victoria is considered to be the home of Italian grape varieties and styles in Australia. Today, pioneering families are producing the likes of Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera. The classic French grapes are also widely planted. Macedon Ranges Lying about an hour’s drive northwest of Melbourne, Macedon Ranges is Australia’s coolest mainland wine region. It has built a reputation for high-quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both still and sparkling. However, the region also produces high-quality aromatic whites, as well as richer reds in the warmer northern areas. Mornington Peninsula Located about an hour’s drive south of Melbourne, Mornington Peninsula is surrounded by water on three sides, making for a truly maritime climate. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the focus here; high-quality Pinot Gris also features. Proximity to the ocean creates a cool, temperate climate that is ideal for high- quality wine production. As such, the focus is on boutique offerings from small-scale producers. Murray Darling Straddling the Murray river in far northwestern Victoria, Murray Darling is a hub for viticulture and other forms of agriculture. Historically known for large-scale production, it’s now recognised for championing alternative grapes. The Chalmers family has been at the forefront of this movement, importing and promoting alternative varieties over the last 30 years or so. Rutherglen Bordering New South Wales in northeastern Victoria, Rutherglen is renowned for producing some of the world’s greatest fortified wines. It is characterised by a continental climate, with warm, sunny days and cool nights, thanks to the nearby Victorian Alps. Fortified Muscat and Topaque wines from this region can reach immense levels of complexity, while red wines exhibit power and structure. Yarra Valley Sitting about 50km northeast of Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is Victoria’s oldest wine region. This cool-climate area is focused on producing pithy, grapefruit-driven Chardonnay and fragrant, light-to-medium-bodied Pinot Noir. The region’s lower-lying and warmer sites also produce elegant and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. [/subscriber-content] Related articles By Farr: Revered Australian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay Bass Philip: Burgundy's Fourrier down under In pursuit of regional identity in Australian Chardonnay

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Wine region 101: Victoria

Scroll down to see an introduction to the key wine areas in Victoria

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