Editors’ picks: Bonus tips on wines to watch

South Africa on stage Julie Sheppard My latest taste of the Cape took place in the heart of London, where House of Sisters Grimm has opened its doors to celebrate South African culture through performance, art and – of course – wine. The venue is home to an art gallery – displaying works by Ella Spira MBE, inspired by Cape landscapes – and iGoli wine bar, which lists only South African bottles from top names including Restless River, Thorne & Daughters, Scions of Sinai, Vergelegen and Journey’s End. [subscriber-content]Favourites included the fresh, mineral Dainty Bess, Cap Classique made by Jane Ferreira-Eedes in Wellington and Ahrens, Black 2021 , a characterful blend of Syrah and Carignan from Swartland. But the star of the show (literally) was a performance of Grammy-nominated musical Inala, an uplifting celebration of African music and contemporary dance that buzzes with the energy of its talented South African performers. Enóloga 2023: An Ode to creativity and sophistication Ines Salpico [caption id="attachment_574336" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Maria Vicente and Jim Cawood in Ode’s B vineyard[/caption] There’s no shortage of exciting projects producing equally thrilling wines across Portugal – not least from the often overlooked Tejo region, where the last decade has seen producers old and new revive tradition with a progressive slant. Among the region’s standout ‘new wave’ projects is Ode , helmed by super-talented winemaker Maria Vicente and general manager Jim Cawood. Since it first went into operation in 2021, Ode has built an exciting portfolio that consistently delivers outstanding wines while not taking itself too seriously. Under the motto ‘Minimal intervention, maximum attention’, Ode’s team is eager to experiment and question assumptions (including their own), creating playful but technically exact takes on different varieties, and with a special focus on Touriga Nacional. Every year, quality allowing, Vicente selects standout parcels to produce limited-edition Enóloga (‘oenologist’) bottlings. In December, the winery released the Enóloga 2023 edition, a harvest that justified both a white (blending Arinto and Fernão Pires) and a red (Touriga Nacional) bottling. Both aged for 12 months in 500L French oak barrels, the wines are an exercise in expressive exactness, testament to Vicente’s ability and Cawood’s vision. Swiss Pinots Sylvia Wu [caption id="attachment_574337" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Credit: Tom Bradley[/caption] Swiss wines are rarely seen outside the country, with about 98% of production consumed domestically. That makes the annual London tasting hosted by Swiss Wine Promotion an unmissable opportunity. At last November’s edition, I was particularly struck by the Pinot Noirs from the German-speaking cantons. Bechtel Weine , based in Eglisau in northern Switzerland, was among my top finds. Its steel-fermented Zurich AOC Pinot Noir 2022 was already appealing, with pure berry fruit and a hint of dried mint. The Sélection Pinot Noir from the same vintage, aged in used oak, adds herbal spice and greater structure and drive. The top cuvée, Bechtus Pinot Noir 2022 , from a low- yielding, old-vine single vineyard and aged for 18 months in 100% new oak, offers a more savoury, mineral expression, layered with berry fruit and a long finish. From the Stadtberg vineyard, Weingut Pircher’s Sélection Pinot Noir combines old vines and a touch of new oak, delivering spiced, juicy fruit, Earl Grey notes and a fine grip. Further southeast in Jenins, within the easternmost AOC of Graubünden, Weingut zur Alten Post’s Saliser Grande Sélection Pinot Noir 2021 shows its 80% new oak on the nose, but impresses with a complex, savoury palate of smoky berries and prune, finishing long with mouthwatering strawberry and cranberry. Oregon’s first name in Riesling Clive Pursehouse [caption id="attachment_574343" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Claire Jarreau[/caption] The name Brooks in the Willamette Valley means Riesling first. In the cellar, after spending years learning and working alongside Chris Williams, Claire Jarreau took over as head winemaker in 2024. Jarreau makes more Riesling than Pinot Noir at Brooks – it’s what drove the former chemist there more than 10 years ago. While she has a penchant for Austrian Riesling, Jarreau has crafted single-vineyard Rieslings from sites across the Willamette Valley. Perhaps her favourite place to spend time is within the old-vine block of Riesling at Hyland, one of the Willamette’s original plantings, from 1972. ‘Walking among those huge, mossy vines, with a morning cup of coffee, is the closest thing to church for me,’ Jarreau says in her southern accent. The Hyland Vineyard Riesling 2023 comes from those old vines, which reliably see botrytis, and is made in a spätlese style. It’s unctuous, with aromas of sweet peaches and pops of juicy Meyer lemon pulp. The Ara Riesling 2023 is made in a dry style from the own-rooted Brooks estate planting from 1973, Brooks’ Orchard Fold vineyard and a 1984 planting at Yamhill vineyard. It soars with saline minerality and a wonderful balance of smoky grilled pineapple and chipped flint stone. Female family legacy at Château du Taillan Georgie Hindle It took me far too long to finally visit Château du Taillan , one of Bordeaux’s last urban vineyards, situated just 11km from the city’s heart and a hidden gem that fuses history – medieval cellars and a historical monument château – family spirit and modern energy. Family-owned by the Cruses since 1896, the estate is led by five dynamic sisters, with oenologist Armelle Cruse at the helm since 1992, guiding it to cru bourgeois exceptionnel status with precision and passion. She’s now joined by her young, vibrant daughter Tatiana, who energises sales and marketing, and manages their lively Instagram account @chateaudutaillan, which brings daily vineyard life, events and food pairings to followers. Taillan excels at tourism, offering guided tours and tastings in the charming boutique. Two bottles currently on sale and recently tasted include the grand vin Château du Taillan Haut-Médoc CBE 2020 (€21 from the producer), a medium- to full-bodied red (89% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) bursting with black fruit, dark chocolate and firm tannins – rich, savoury and balanced after barrel ageing. More playful and accessible is the La Rose du Taillan Passionnée Haut-Médoc 2020 (€12; 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon), with its violet-floral nose, fresh fruits and soft, easy-drinking palate – perfect for casual midweek meals such as pizza or pasta. The e-shop ships to the UK, or visit next time you’re nearby. [/subscriber-content] Related articles Editors’ picks: Bonus tips on wines to watch – December 2025 Editors’ picks – November 2025 Editors’ picks – October 2025

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South Africa on stage

Julie Sheppard

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